Want to know what it’s like travelling in Azerbaijan? Or where to head for the best landscapes and scenery? ‘Azerbaijan – Discovering the Country’ is our personal experience exploring this country in 2024. Our adventure includes Baku, Lankaran, Sheki, Lahic and Quba. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. ‘Azerbaijan – Discovering the Country’ reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
Azerbaijan, ‘land of eternal fire’. With oil and gas accounting for 90% of the economy, it’s understandable why the country refers to itself this way. Land of ‘strikingly different’ would also be appropriate. The capital Baku is fast cars and designer clothes, with huge modern buildings and flash malls slowly swallowing up the old soviet apartment blocks. Surrounded by stone walls, the medieval old city has survived and remains Baku’s number one attraction. But only a few hours drive away, you will find endless fields of crops and fruit trees, with donkeys pulling carts, green forests, and mountains scattered with ancient villages. This is the real Azerbaijan. No glitz or glamour. Traditional life goes on unchanged as it has for thousands of years. Ladies sell their home-grown goods on the side of the road, and men work the fields.
Why go to Azerbaijan?
Azerbaijan is different. It’s been influenced by its neighbours, and yet has its own identity. It is an interesting country, where the ancient and modern world meets. There’s loads of attractions, both man-made and natural, and a fascinating landscape like nowhere else. Remote settlements and old silk road stops are easy to reach. With a new visa system in place, entry is easier than ever. The local people are some of the most welcoming you will ever meet, and travelling here is an experience you will never forget.
- Capital: Baku
- Best time to visit: March-October (November to April is winter)
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$150 per day
- Currency: Manat (AZN 1 = AU$0.87)
- Language: Azerbaijani
- Visa: Yes
- Difficulty: 1 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Baku
Baku is an evolving city. Change has, and is, happening here. With modern western buildings dominating the skyline, it’s easy to forget where you are. The UNESCO Old Walled City remains intact, in contrast to some of its surroundings. Restaurants and cafes are plentiful, as are points of interest. A handful of day trips are also an easy option from the city. With plenty of green open spaces, pedestrian walkways, and a pleasant promenade along the Caspian Sea, Baku is a popular city to spend a few days or more.
Getting to Baku
Getting to Baku is straight forward. With flights from Asia, Europe and the Middle East, there’s plenty of options. Access to the city from the airport is cheap and easy, with a regular airport express bus heading into 28 May Metro station in the city centre, taking between thirty and forty minutes (AZN 1.30).
Where to stay in Baku
Baku has an abundance of places to stay, including hotels, guesthouses and Airbnb’s. Prices vary a lot depending on what type of experience you are after, but all budgets are covered. Around the old city is convenient but busy and expensive. The 28 May Metro station area is around a forty minute walk from the old city, and has plenty of options and resources. This is where we stayed, in an old soviet style apartment amongst locals.
Where to eat and drink in Baku
Baku is loaded with eating options, with local and international options. There’s heaps of bars, cafes and food halls around, as well as supermarkets and fresh fruit and vegetable stalls. It is easy to self-cater and local produce is beautiful quality, especially the stone fruits in Summer.
- Get to Manipura Ethic Local Food (our favourite vegan restaurant, plus friendly staff who speak English)
- Don’t miss De Rama Cafe (great selection of vegan dishes)
- Check out Coffee9bar (great organic coffee, near Port Baku Mall)
Things to see and do in Baku
Old City This is an unmissable attraction. It’s a large stone walled area, with plenty of alleys to wander around. Main sites inside the old city are Maidens Tower and Shirvanshahs Palace.
Flame Towers up on the hill offer a great view of the city. You can catch the funicular up, or take the fifteen minute walk.
Port Baku or Caspian Waterfront Malls offer a look into the lavish Baku lifestyle.
Qobustan Petroglyph Reserve is a popular half day trip from Baku. Plenty of tour companies around town who will take you there. It’s about an hour’s drive. Public transport is possible, but would take some planning. Gets super busy, so go early.
Mud Volcanoes are near the Petroglph reserve, and can be combined. A bunch of small mounds that constantly bubble out mud.
Atesgah Fire Temple is an easy trip from the city, and public transport goes right to the site. The trips takes around an hour and a half. A series of gas flames coming out of the ground that can’t be put out.
Getting around Baku
Baku is a great city to explore on foot, with plenty of interesting buildings and sights. There’s also a busy underground metro system, and loads of taxis.
Lankaran
Lankaran is an off the beaten path city to the South West of Baku. It’s the fruit bowl of the country, with some of the best stone fruit you will ever taste! Apricots, cherries and peaches are everywhere, as is local honey. Situated on the shores of the Caspian Sea, it’s a popular holiday spot for locals. The city itself lacks any not to be missed attractions, but it has a warm and hospitable atmosphere. Nearby there are National Parks, lakes, rivers and mountains to explore.
Getting to Lankaran
An easy three-hour drive from Baku, and connected by bus, getting here isn’t difficult. Azerbaijan’s main roads are generally in a good condition, and car hire is very affordable.
Where to stay in Lankaran
Being a holiday spot for Baku residents, the city has a decent selection of hotels. Airbnb’s are starting to emerge but remain a little limited. The city itself is spread out, and some hotels are a few kilometres out of town, so be sure to check the location before booking if you want a central location. We enjoyed staying in a local apartment walking distance from the Caspian Sea and central square. Locals were curious, caring and very welcoming.
Where to eat and drink in Lankaran
A decent selection of local eating options around the city centre. Plus, the City Bazaar is open daily and sells fresh produce for self-catering. Outside of the city, restaurants and tea stops are on the sides of the road. Women cooking beautiful fresh bread on the fire can be found too.
- Get to Borani Restaurant (popular choice with the locals, nice atmosphere and staff, not much English)
- Don’t miss Lighthouse Coffee (get your Americano fix here)
- Check out Roadside Stalls (ladies selling their homegrown organic fruit and produce are on most roads heading out of the city, don’t miss the apricots and cherries)
Things to see and do in Lankaran
Lerik Famous for the number of residents who live to over one hundred years of age, Lerik makes a lovely day trip. It’s a scenic one hour drive up into the mountains, with stacks of opportunities to stop for fresh bread or a cup of tea. The local centurion and history museum are worth a stop.
Hirkan National Park Beautiful area for walking. The park contains bears and wolves, so don’t get lost. Twenty minute drive.
Xanbulan A forested area around the local water reservoir, with some nice walks. Lots of eating options amongst the trees. Gets busy on the weekends. Bring a picnic.
Wandering the streets Admiring the old buildings, parks and statues, and chatting to all the locals was one of our most memorable activities.
City Bazaar is a thriving hive of activity. Anything and everything is on offer here, the best place in the city centre for fresh produce. Super busy.
Getting around Lankaran
The city itself is best navigated on foot, as the streets are narrow and there’s limited parking. For areas outside of town, a car is necessary.
Sheki
Considered Azerbaijan’s most beautiful town, a visit here is a must. With a mountain backdrop, cool climate, and views out over the valley below, Sheki was an easy choice when early rulers were looking for a location for a summer palace. The old town, with its UNESCO palaces and gardens, are the major attraction. Also known for sweet shops, the city has no shortage of local and international visitors.
Getting to Sheki
Only a four and a half hour drive from the capital Baku, and with public transport also available, getting here poses no major problems. Most tour agencies will offer it as a day trip, but spending a few days here is well worth it.
Where to stay in Sheki
Sheki gets plenty of visitors, and as a result, hotels and guesthouses are plentiful. Airbnb’s are growing in number and offer the chance to interact with the locals. There’s options all over the city, but the closer you are to the old town, the more you will pay. Staying around the main area of the newer part of town is a good choice, as you’ll find the best selection of restaurants, supermarkets and shops located here.
Where to eat and drink in Sheki
A lot of the bigger restaurants will have menus in English. Local Azerbaijani dishes are the focus, but you won’t have to look too hard if you are after some Western style meals. Plenty of supermarkets and street bazaars selling fresh produce make self-catering easy. Some nice options for coffee and homemade pastries too.
- Get to Serin Restaurant (Our favourite spot to eat. Local dishes, with an English menu. Outdoor dining options under the trees. Great owner and staff)
- Don’t miss Zarif Sirniyyat (Busy pastry shop. Try the nut cake on top of the counter)
- Check out Naxis Cafe (decent Americano coffee and sweet cakes)
Things to see and do in Sheki
Palace of Shaki Khans The artwork inside is amazing. Gets super busy.
Shakikhanovs Palace A smaller palace, with impressive windows. Not as busy.
Upper Caravanserai An old hotel where silk road traders used to stay. Great for photos. Free entry.
Albanian Church Contains an art museum, but seldom open. Cool view.
Shaki Castle Historical building with nice gardens.
Walking up the street from the lower part of town to the palace and admiring all the old buildings. The street is lined with local shops and stalls (find the ladies baking fresh local bread).
Getting around Sheki
Old Lada’s, now used as taxis, are never more than a block away, for those who need a ride. The old town is best discovered on foot. The walk up from the main area of the city takes around thirty minutes with a few stops to chat with the locals.
Lahic
A mountain village, filled with coppersmiths and tea shops, high up in the hills, Lahic has some of Azerbaijan’s best scenery and views. Most of the village is made from stone, gathered from the river below. The location itself is spectacular, and this alone makes the drive worth the effort. Surrounded by hills filled with flowers, it has a fairytale feel about the place.
Getting to Lahic
Getting here is one of the main attractions. The road up through the narrow gorge is crazy, with the road often closed in wet weather. Three hours by car from Baku, and also Sheki, it’s a popular day trip. The road from Sheki is the most scenic, but it can be impossible to pass after it rains, so plan ahead. The newer road from Baku, around the Eastern side of the range, is usually open, but the road is often damaged and waiting to be repaired. A popular tour option from Baku. Public transport is possible, but usually only one departure per day.
Where to stay in Lahic
Being a small village, there’s limited options as far as places to stay are concerned. Most people visit for the day. There are some local guesthouses and homestays around. We found a great one called Abbasov’s Guesthouse, run by a local family. It’s a new and modern two- bedroom apartment in their lovely back garden. Book ahead.
Where to eat and drink in Lahic
With a summer population of around six hundred residents, eating out options are limited. There are a couple of places around town that cater for the tour groups, but these tend to be a little pricey. There’s very little in the way of groceries, so bring some supplies with you if you are staying for a few days.
- Get to National Dishes of Lahic (a small family run place down a side street. The vegetable soup and herb bread are great)
- Don’t miss the Fruit and Vegetable Car (a car drives around the streets most afternoons honking its horn, and locals come out to buy the produce on offer. The best selection in the village)
- Check out the Herbal Tea Shops (the town is famous for its fresh mountain flower teas. A huge variety of dried flowers are sold everywhere. The local homemade cheeses are also very tasty)
Things to see and do in Lahic
Exploring the streets and checking out all the craftsmen, stone buildings, and locally made products. English speaking locals enjoy a friendly chat.
Admiring the endless views of the hills, mountains and valleys.
The drive to and from Lahic and the location of the village is one of the main reasons to visit.
Getting around Lahic
Most of the village is closed to traffic, so walking is the one and only way of getting around.
Quba
A big bustling city, Quba itself lacks any unmissable sites. It’s busy, and a little messy in places, but the old part of the city has some buildings to check out, and there’s a pleasant park with a couple of museums. Across the river is the old Jewish area, with a large synagogue and several interesting structures. Most visitors just pass through here on their way to Xinaliq, but Quba has everything you need for a longer stay.
Getting to Quba
With a new freeway, you can reach Quba from Baku in just over two hours. Public transport is available, but takes the old highway, through all the small towns, so allow half a day.
Where to stay in Quba
Accommodation options for most budgets are available. Airbnb’s are popping up in the city and nearby towns. We found a good one near the Quba Bazaar, which was within walking distance to all the sites, eating options, and the mega market.
Where to eat and drink in Quba
Loads of local eateries around. The main road into the city is lined with fresh fruit stalls. The road out of town to Xinaliq has outdoor restaurants every hundred meters. Notably, a lot of these places are very expensive, and deceitful. The menu will have no prices. You will be told the price by a staff member, who will confirm it with you. When the bill comes, what you were told would be twenty is now seventy, and a menu with prices appears. Ask to see the prices before you order.
- Get to Eqzotika Restaurant (in the park, it’s popular with locals playing backgammon)
- Don’t miss Quba Bazaar (a sprawling mess of local produce. Look for a man selling cheese out of the boot of his car, across the street from the entrance)
- Check out Mega Market (one of the biggest markets we found in Azerbaijan, has everything)
Things to see and do in Quba
Xinaliq This is the main reason for heading to this corner of the country. The drive up to the small mountain village of Xinaliq is a highlight of most trips to Azerbaijan. The drive takes around one and a half hours, but allow more time, as you will need to keep stopping to take photos as the scenery is spectacular. Some nice opportunities to stop for tea, honey and freshly baked bread too!
Xacmaz A nearby town, around thirty-minutes drive, with a park scattered with large and interesting objects.
Carpets are made locally here. There’s a couple of carpet stores worth a visit. You may be invited to look at the factory area where they are hand-made.
Wandering Like any new place, walking around is not only a fun experience, but also allows you to get a feel for local life. Quba is no different. The park and river areas are enjoyable, and walking over the bridge to the Jewish area, or red city, is fun.
Getting around Quba
Packed streets make driving around the central area a challenge, but not impossible. Walking is your best bet, or taking a taxi if you are in a hurry. For excursions to Xinaliq or surrounding towns, you will need a car.
Getting to Azerbaijan
Well connected with the rest of the world, flying here doesn’t take too much planning. Entry via bus and train is regular and easy from neighbouring Tbilisi, but it is not possible to enter from Armenia. There are also border crossings in the North near Quba with Russia, and in the West near Lankaran with Iran. We flew in from Istanbul, a short three hour flight.
Useful things to know before visiting Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan is a cosmopolitan country, particularly Baku.
It’s very Western in terms of dress.
There are more bars than mosques.
People are open and friendly. Not many will speak English, but the younger generation are learning it in school, and will practice with you.
It’s very clean, tidy and safe.
Your phone from home will work, and coverage is great all over the country. Esim works well.
Car hire is very affordable, from AU$35 per day. We used Automile Rent a Car Baku.
Petrol is AU$1 per litre.
There are speed cameras everywhere, the most I have ever seen.
The local drivers are erratic. Be prepared.
Public transport is very cheap. The thirty minute bus ride from the airport to the city is around AU$1.
The fresh seasonal fruit is amazing, plentiful and cheap.
Health food products are emerging but are very expensive. Locally made organic products are great value and include wine, olive oil and rice.
Public toilets are non-existent. Baku’s malls have toilets, but you will struggle outside of the city.
Final thoughts on travelling in Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan exceeded our expectations. It’s a destination with plenty to offer. It’s different and interesting. Azerbaijani people are warm and welcoming. They will smile and wave, and invite you for a cup of tea. Baku offers some compelling sights, but the real fascination lies outside the city. Unusual and intriguing landscapes, enchanting rural villages, and exotic traditions are all on offer and await the curious traveller. With the new e-visa making entry easier than ever, it’s only a matter of time before this hidden gem is discovered.