Want to know where on earth Transnistria is? Or what to expect when you get there? ‘Transnistria – Where Is It and What’s There?’ is our personal experience exploring this region in 2024. Our adventure includes Tiraspol and Bender. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. ‘Transnistria – Where Is It and What’s There?’ reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
Transnistria, ‘a country that doesn’t exist‘. Officially still part of Moldova, Transnistria, known locally as Pridnestrovie, has been an unrecognised territory since 1990. With its own government, military, police and currency, it’s a very unique and interesting place. A visit here is a journey back in time. With a world class fortress, and the capital Tiraspol full of Soviet-era history and culture, Transnistria is an alluring and worthwhile destination.
Why go to Transnistria?
Transnistria is like nowhere else. It’s intriguing and captivating. A wonderland for the curious traveller, there’s ample opportunity to learn and see things from another perspective. Geography and maps don’t always define countries, or the beliefs and wishes of the people who call it home. Transnistria is one such place. It’s a place to come with an open mind. You won’t see hordes of tourists here, it’s not that type of destination. You will expose yourself to something different, which is the reason why we travel. Transnistria is truly authentic.
- Capital: Tiraspol
- Best time to visit: May – September
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$100 per day
- Currency: Transnistrian Ruble (PRB10 = AU$1)
- Language: Russian
- Visa: NO
- Difficulty: 2 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Tiraspol
A visit to Tiraspol is a trip back in time. The city is a living museum of the USSR era. Old soviet style apartment blocks, broad streets lined with grand buildings, and large parks dotted with monuments of heroes past and present adorn the city. Things change slowly here. With gas and electricity supplied by Russia, Tiraspol has more of a Russian feel than that of neighbouring Moldova or Ukraine. Billboards advertising brands you’ve never heard of decorate any vacant space. The locals keep to themselves, but interaction with them is fun and rewarding. Tiraspol is a feast for the senses. It’s unusual and distinct. It’s not a place you will forget.
Getting to Tiraspol
With no international airport, entering via one of the land borders with Moldova or Ukraine is the only way to reach Transnistria and Tiraspol. Bender, on the Western side of the Dniester river, is a short drive from the border, where you must complete customs formalities. Once you have cleared customs and entered Bender, Tiraspol is a short drive across the bridge.
Where to stay in Tiraspol
Don’t expect resorts and flash hotels, there aren’t any. Options are limited. There are a handful of hotels around the city. Airbnb’s are available, we found a great apartment. It was a perfect way to support a local while experiencing life in an old soviet-era block of flats.
Where to eat and drink in Tiraspol
Tiraspol has lots of local eating options. Don’t expect to find any English menus. You will find people who will want to help. They all smile. Things are made with love. Google translate is really useful, especially if you have dietary requirements. Vegetarian dishes are popular, especially in the buffet style places.
- Get to Cantina USSR (a time warp back to the 80’s, with antiques and Russian memorabilia furnishing the deli style eatery. The staff are welcoming and helpful)
- Don’t miss Mega Dom (a shopping mall, with a tasty buffet. Clean, affordable and friendly place. Popular with locals. Some of the staff speak English)
- Check out Green Market (massive undercover market, packed full of local produce, from fruit and vegetables, to honey and cheese. This is where the locals shop)
Things to see and do in Tiraspol
Catherine the Great Park has swan ponds, fountains, monuments and even a concert hall! Well worth a wander.
Suvorov Square is where military parades, festivals and events are held. It’s also where you will find memorials and a giant Lenin statue.
Kvint Winery and Distillery houses some world-class award-winning brandy. Tours and tastings are available from Monday to Friday, English tours however are rare.
Walking through the residential areas, neighbourhoods and local parks is a great way to get a glimpse into the everyday life of a local. People on bikes laden with groceries, children playing on ancient merry go rounds, and friends catching up on park benches are part of everyday activities.
Getting around Tiraspol
Tiraspol’s main points of interest are easy to locate and visit on foot. Walking is really the best way to experience the city, and see the day-to-day life of its residents. The city is spread out, with some attractions a little further apart, so having a car would obviously be beneficial. Taxis and buses cruise the streets, but you would need to speak Russian to utilise them.
Bender
Transnistria’s second largest city, Bender is home to the impressive 16th century Bender Fortress. The region’s most visited attraction is an easy and popular day trip from Chisinau, with people checking out the fortress, then heading back to Chisinau. Bender however, has more to offer. It’s a pleasant, small city, on the banks of the Dniester River. With no shortage of monuments and museum’s, Bender exudes history. A selection of decent restaurants, accommodation options, along with a very useful information centre, it’s well worth spending some time here.
Getting to Bender
Bender has good bus connections with Chisinau, the journey taking less than two hours. By road is the only way to access Bender. All roads along the Moldovan border will have an official military style checkpoint, where you will need to show your passport, complete some paperwork, then pay a small fee if you are entering by car. It’s all very straightforward. We had no problems entering or exiting. You will need the appropriate paperwork from your hire company, so be sure you tell them that you will be driving into Bender, Transnistria.
Where to stay in Bender
Bender has a handful of hotel options. There’s not a great deal of guesthouses or Airbnb’s available. Tiraspol, a short drive across the bridge, is also an option when looking for a place to call home.
Where to eat and drink in Bender
Bender, being a fairly small city, has a great selection of cafes and local eateries. Wander the streets, see where the locals are eating. The food is inexpensive, and homemade. Plenty of cafés around town catering for visitors to the fortress.
- Get to USSR Canteen (tasty food with friendly service. Museum atmosphere. The locals are welcoming)
- Don’t miss Bender Central Market (large colourful place with lovely fresh produce and preserves)
- Check out Strada Lazo (where you can find some traditional Russian style cafes, serving coffee and local pastries)
Things to see and do in Bender
Bender Fortress is understandably the number one reason why people come to the city. It contains some interesting museums, including the museum of torture instruments!
Immerse yourself in local life by checking out a local market, or purchasing some fruit from a roadside stall. Walking through a park is one of our favourite ways of getting an insight into the daily lives of the locals.
Bender Railway Memorial has a couple of classic carriages, with old Russian insignia. Some excellent photo opportunities.
Memorials and Monuments cover the city, from Lenin to old tanks.
Getting around Bender
Visiting the fortress, along with Benders other points of interest, is easily done on foot. You will also get a feel for the city and meet some local residents. Having a car saves you time, and gives you the freedom to check out neighbouring Tiraspol, all at your own pace.
Useful things to know before visiting Transnistria
Transnistrian people are proud. They are not Ukrainian or Moldovan.
Everything is in Russian. Forget about any English.
Visa and Mastercard will not work.
Bring cash. You will find moneychangers randomly around the streets, just look for the board with all the rates.
Mobile coverage isn’t the best.
You need your passport to enter, like any foreign country. There won’t be a stamp.
You will need a letter from your car hire company to bring your car across the border.
Final thoughts on travelling in Transnistria
Transnistria is unlike anywhere we have ever been before. It has an element of the unknown, which is an appealing reason to visit. It’s a place with a lot of misconceptions. Come with an open mind. Find someone who speaks English, talk to them, ask them about Transnistria, about the current state of things. Ask them whatever it is you want to know. After spending a few days here, and having your questions answered, you will leave with a better and more accurate understanding than the preconceived ideas that you may have arrived with. You probably won’t understand all of the history, the occupations, or the annexation attempts, politics are never easy. What you will understand is that ordinary people live here. They have jobs, they go to work and school. They have dreams. Come to Transnistria to meet these people, to see their country, to appreciate it. Come to Transnistria to broaden your mind.