Want to know what it’s like travelling in Georgia? And where to find some of the best wine and local cuisine? ‘Georgia – Things to Know and Places to Go’ is our personal experience exploring this country in 2024. Our adventure includes Tbilisi and Telavi, along with plenty of Day Trips. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. ‘Georgia – Things to Know and Places to Go’ reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
Georgia, ‘the birthplace of wine’. One of the first countries in the world to make wine, and with wine being one of the country’s top exports, ‘kingdom of wine’ would also be a good description. With no shortage of wineries, restaurants and bars, Georgia is a wine lovers paradise. It’s also a place of mountains littered with ancient monasteries, stone churches, rivers and cave cities. The people are proud and strong, they hold onto tradition. Georgia is vintage. Vintage wine, cities and villages. Vintage beliefs. But with a growing younger population who want to head in a different direction, Georgia is changing. Europe beckons. Change is underway. But some things will never change, Georgia’s history, and their love of wine.
Why go to Georgia?
Georgia is a destination with a lot to offer. History, culture, food and wine are part of everyday life, and reason enough to visit. Many parts of the country remain as they have for thousands of years. Crumbling rock towers, forts and mountain villages are everywhere, and most are easy to reach and explore. With more than half the country covered by mountains, hiking is popular. Wine is everywhere, as is local cuisines. Getting around is easy and inexpensive, with access to most of the country possible. You won’t be met by smiling locals, that’s not who they are. But spend some time here and you may grow to understand them, their history and their story.
- Capital: Tbilisi
- Best time to visit: April – October (November to March is winter)
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$100 per day
- Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL1.75 = AU$1)
- Language: Georgian
- Visa: No
- Difficulty: 1 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a vintage city. It’s a capital city which has so far managed to avoid mass modernisation and Western influence. Buildings remain as they were in Soviet times. Traditions practised for centuries are still part of everyday life. Wine and food are still made slowly by hand. Dogs sleep peacefully in the tree lined streets, and locals sit and chat. The Kura River snakes calmly through the city, and wandering its banks is a popular pastime. With Russia to the North, and Europe to the West, decisions are and have been made. Murals and artwork cover buildings all over the city, making it clear which direction Tbilisi and Georgia are heading. With hundreds of wine bars, restaurants and sights, Tbilisi is one place you may never want to leave.
Getting to Tbilisi
Plenty of daily flights from Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Also accessible overland from neighbouring Armenia and Turkey.
Where to stay in Tbilisi
With a growing tourism industry, accommodation options are generous, from five-star hotels to backpacker hostels. The old town is convenient, but a bit dearer than other areas. Guesthouses and Airbnb’s are popular. We found a great one in the Station Square neighbourhood. We loved it here, especially for a long stay. There’s everything you need, and great transport connections. It’s the perfect area to be part of everyday life, away from the busy tourist areas.
Where to eat and drink in Tbilisi
No shortage of delicious eating and drinking options. They are everywhere. The old town can be twice the price of local areas. Opening hours vary, so do some research. Beautiful fresh produce is sold everywhere, in markets, small shops and along the streets. The variety and quality of seasonal fruits and vegetables, plus homemade cheeses and preserves is amazing. The city is full of places worth recommending. Some of our favourites during our five-week stay were:
- Get to Mapshalia (we miss this place already! Local Georgian cuisine, with local prices. Cash only. Don’t miss the cheese dumplings)
- Don’t miss Warszawa Bar (small place with friendly staff. Cheapest drinks in town)
- Check out Bazari Orbeliani (food court with loads of variety. Beer, wine, music and local produce. The homemade ice cream at cone culture is awesome.)
- Some other places we enjoyed were 8000 Vintages wine bar, Radio Café for people watching, and Dezerter Bazaar for all the fresh local produce plus vintage shopping.
Things to see and do in Tbilisi
Wine Stopping at one of the many wine bars and sampling Georgias natural wines.
Old Town Strolling around the old town, looking for old towers, churches and squares.
Narikala Fortress Catch the cable car up the hill for some of the best views of the city. Say hello to Mother Georgia while you are up there.
Botanical Gardens Take a break from the city, and enjoy the 180 year-old tree filled gardens.
Museums Tbilisi has plenty. The National Museum is a highlight.
Vintage shopping Vintage clothes shops are everywhere, with some of the best selections you will find anywhere in the world. The area around Fabric has some of the best range. Dezerter Vintage is worth finding too!
Sulphur Bath No visit to Tbilisi is complete without a sulphur bath. Soak in the hot water, then get scrubbed down and soaped up. It’s a proper experience! We visited Kyiv Sulphur Spa, which is genuine local style.
Antiques Loads of antique shops around the city. Head over to the dry bridge to find the daily antique market.
Taste some local cuisine. Georgian food is delicious, and there’s no shortage of restaurants offering it. Additionally, most grocery stores have a wonderful delicatessen inside. Fresco Supermarket has a great deli section, with names and ingredients all in English. Don’t miss the eggplant with walnut.
Day Trips Georgia has a great public transport system, and most of the towns, sights, and attractions can be reached on a day trip. Train and bus tickets are cheap. Tour operators offer trips to every corner of the country, and it is sometimes easier to join a tour than attempt to reach remote places.
DAY TRIPS from Tbilisi
Mtskheta Catch the train from Station Square, or bus from Didube Station. A picturesque town on the banks of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, with some old cathedrals, monasteries and fortresses to explore. Catch a taxi up to Jvari Church on top of the hill. Taxis wait around the bus station. Around 20GEL is a fair price. When you get hungry, Ada Café down on the river has good food, views, and friendly staff.
Goris The birthplace of Stalin, you will find his large statue, his bulletproof train carriage, his childhood house, and a museum here. There’s an old fortress with great views, and some impressive buildings. Chinebuli is a decent eating place across from the park. The corn bread was great. Easy to reach by train from Station Square, or bus from Didube.
Uplistsikhe An ancient cave city, once housing twenty thousand people. It’s a fun place to visit. There’s theatre’s, tunnels, markets, churches and a winery to find in the cliffs. Grab a taxi from Goris to get out here. It’s a twenty-minute ride. 30GEL is the going price for the driver to bring you out, wait for a couple of hours, and take you back to Goris.
Vardzia The old cave city is remarkable. A visit here is a highlight. Getting here by bus is possible, but involves multiple changes. The easiest way is to join a group tour. Tours also include stops at Akhaltsikhe to visit Rabati castle, and Borjomi to sample the famous water. Most tour operators in Tbilisi head out this way. It’s a big day, seventeen hours, but it’s worth the trip for the cave city. Shop around, as you will often find discounted tickets online, sometimes half price. Pack your own lunch and snacks, as you won’t stop to eat until around 3pm, and the restaurant is limited.
Davit Gareja One of Georgias most visited sites, the monastery complex is situated on the border with Azerbaijan, and parts of it can be closed depending on the political situation between the two countries. A bus departs each day at 11am during summer, from outside the tourist information centre in Tbilisi. It can be reached in around three hours if you have your own car.
Getting around Tbilisi
Easy and cheap to get around Tbilisi and Georgia. The city has a metro, which is quick and affordable. Hold on tight. Regular green buses service the city, and the popular Marshrutky, like a minibus, are everywhere. Furthermore, Tbilisi is pedestrian friendly, with parks, walkways, and traffic free areas.
Telavi
The largest town in the Kakheti region, it’s a useful base for visiting the surrounding area, and stopping for a tasting at one of the many wineries. Telavi has historical sights of its own, along with good eating options, accommodation and vineyards.
Getting to Telavi
Situated to the East of Tbilisi, at the base of the Caucasus Mountains, the drive here takes two-three hours. To get the most out of the Kakheti region, having your own car is the best bet. Daily buses head this way from Tbilisi, and day trips are very popular.
Where to stay in Telavi
Guesthouses and hotels are everywhere, with most budgets covered. Airbnb’s are also available. It’s not a massive town, so anywhere around the town centre would be a good choice.
Where to eat and drink in Telavi
No problems when it comes to finding a place to drink, with bars all over the place, and wineries a short walk from the centre of town. The central market is the heart of the city, and the best place for local produce. Locals here gave us the best recommendations for where to eat, and where to find the best dumplings!
- Get to Zodiako (popular place at the top of town. The mushroom khinkali is delicious)
- Don’t miss Bazari (fruit, vegetables and local cheese’s can be found here)
- Check out Sesikeli Winery (small family run winery. Simon is welcoming. Taste six wines for 30GEL)
Things to see and do in Telavi
Batonistsikhe Castle sits in the middle of town, and houses the Museum.
King Erekle on his horse watches over the valley behind the castle.
The Giant Plane Tree is a popular place to visit.
DAY TRIPS from Telavi
Alaverdi Cathedral is only a short drive from Telavi, and along with nearby Ikalto Monastery, offers some good photo opportunities. Nekresi Monastery is close by, and sits high up on a hill, offering rewarding views.
Gremi Fortress offers another chance to learn about some Georgian history. Nearby Temi Winery is a local community run vineyard, and a perfect place to take a break and sample some local grapes.
Lagodekhi and the nearby protected area is a cool spot to get some nature and trekking in. There’s a helpful information centre, with English speaking staff who will explain all the hiking options to you. We hiked up to the Black Grouse Waterfall. The hike follows the river, has plenty of shade and scenery, and takes around two hours each way.
Sighnaghi calls itself the city of love and attracts more than its share of visitors. It’s an eye pleasing town, sitting on top of a hill. There’s a museum, and old defensive walls and towers to explore. Gets super busy. Avoid on weekends.
Getting around Telavi
Most of the attractions are in the centre of town, and easy to reach on foot from your accommodation. Plenty of one-way streets to challenge you if you are driving. Taxis are never very far away if you need a lift.
Getting to Georgia
Daily flights from Europe and the Middle East into Tbilisi and Batumi in the North. Istanbul is the main connection from other areas. Neighbouring Turkey, Armenia and Russia have border posts for entering and exiting the country. It was not possible to enter Azerbaijan when we visited.
Useful things to know before visiting Georgia
Some Bank of Georgia (BOG) ATMs distribute Euro’s and $US. You will find one at Galleria Mall, and another at the Airport.
Public transport is very affordable and you can get anywhere.
There’s dogs and cats all over the city. They are friendly.
You need to be a confident driver if you plan on hiring a car, as local drivers are CRAZY.
Be careful when using a pedestrian crossing, even when you have a green crossing signal.
Local food is available everywhere, it’s cheap, tasty, and you will have loads of options no matter what your diet.
Georgia is a perfect place to self-cater, with fresh fruit and vegetable markets and grocery stores all over the city. Dezerter Bazaar and the surrounding streets have everything you could ever need.
Not a lot of the older generation speak English, younger people are more likely to.
Final thoughts on travelling in Georgia
We loved Georgia. It’s a traveller’s dream destination. With an abundance of quality food and wine, vintage markets, an old town, and beautiful tree lined streets and parks, it’s no wonder that visitor numbers are on the up. Outside of Tbilisi is a countryside saturated in history, with castle’s, forts and monastery’s waiting for the curious. Cave city’s, mountains, National Parks and winery’s lie within easy reach of the capital. It’s an expressive country. They’re not afraid to stand up for what they believe and want. We weren’t greeted by friendly locals, it’s not that type of place. You will need to spend some time here before you are accepted and welcomed. Most visitors are here for a few days then leave. But you won’t understand the country in this short time. Georgia is a country where you will be rewarded for your time and efforts. It takes time to fit in, to feel comfortable. It’s a country we will remember. It’s a country we will miss. Georgia is a place we will come back to.