Eager to live like a local and experience the heart of traditional Georgia? Want insider tips on where to find some of the best wine and local cuisine? Georgia – Things to Know and Places to Go is our personal experience exploring this country in 2024. Our adventure includes Tbilisi and Telavi, along with plenty of day trips. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. Our guide reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
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Georgia, ‘the birthplace of wine’. One of the first countries in the world to make wine, and with wine among its top exports, it could also be called the ‘kingdom of wine’. With no shortage of wineries, restaurants, and bars, Georgia is a wine lovers paradise. It’s also a land of mountains dotted with ancient monasteries, stone churches, rivers, and cave cities. The people are proud and strong, holding onto tradition. Georgia is vintage – vintage wine, vintage cities and villages, vintage beliefs. At the same time, a growing younger population is looking toward a different future. Europe beckons, and change is underway. Yet some things will never change: Georgia’s history and its enduring love of wine.
Why go to Georgia?
Georgia is a destination with a lot to offer. History, culture, food, and wine are part of everyday life, and reason enough to visit. Many parts of the country remain as they have for thousands of years. Crumbling rock towers, forts, and mountain villages are scattered throughout, and most are easy to reach and explore. With more than half the country covered by mountains, hiking is popular. Wine is everywhere, as are local cuisines. Getting around is easy and inexpensive, with access to most of the country possible. You won’t always be met by smiling locals, that’s simply not who they are. But spend some time here, and you may grow to understand them, their history, and their story.
- Capital: Tbilisi
- Best time to visit: April – October (November to March is winter)
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$100 per day
- Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL1.75 = AU$1)
- Language: Georgian
- Visa: No
- Difficulty: 1 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a vintage city. It’s a capital city which has so far managed to avoid mass modernisation and Western influence. Many buildings remain as they were in Soviet times. Traditions practised for centuries are still part of everyday life. Wine and food are still made slowly, by hand. Dogs sleep peacefully in the tree-lined streets, and locals sit and chat. The Kura River snakes calmly through the city, and wandering its banks is a popular pastime. With Russia to the north, and Europe to the west, decisions are – and always have been – carefully considered. Murals and artwork cover buildings all over the city, making it clear which direction Tbilisi and Georgia are heading. With hundreds of wine bars, restaurants, and sights, Tbilisi is one place you may never want to leave.
Getting to Tbilisi
Plenty of daily flights from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. It’s also easy to reach overland from neighbouring Armenia and Turkey.
Where to stay in Tbilisi
With a growing tourism industry, accommodation options are plentiful, ranging from five-star hotels to backpacker hostels. The old town is convenient, though slightly pricier than other areas. Guesthouses and Airbnbs are popular. We stayed in a great one in the Station Square neighbourhood. We loved it, especially for a longer stay. There’s everything you need, plus excellent transport connections. It’s the perfect area to be part of everyday life, away from the busy tourist areas.
Where to eat and drink in Tbilisi
The food scene here is exceptional. Delicious eating and drinking options are everywhere. The old town can be twice the price of local areas, and opening hours vary, so it’s worth doing a little research. Beautiful fresh produce is sold everywhere – in markets, small shops, and along the streets. The variety and quality of seasonal fruits and vegetables, along with homemade cheeses and preserves, is amazing. The city is full of places worth recommending. Some of our favourites during our five-week stay were:
- Get to Mapshalia (we miss this place already! Local Georgian cuisine, with local prices. Cash only. Don’t miss the cheese dumplings)
- Don’t miss Warszawa Bar (small place with friendly staff and the cheapest drinks in town, kicks off at 8pm)
- Check out Bazari Orbeliani (a food court with loads of variety, plus beer, wine, music, and local produce. The homemade ice cream at Cone Culture is awesome)
- Other places we enjoyed were 8000 Vintages wine bar, Radio Café for people watching, and Dezerter Bazaar for fresh local produce – and a bit of vintage shopping
Things to see and do in Tbilisi
Wine Stop at one of the many wine bars and sampling Georgia’s natural wines.
Old Town Stroll around the old town, exploring ancient towers, churches, and charming squares.
Narikala Fortress Take the cable car up the hill for some of the best views of the city, and say hello to Mother Georgia while you’re there.
Botanical Gardens Escape the city for a while and enjoy the 180-year-old, tree filled gardens.
Museums Tbilisi has plenty. The National Museum is a highlight.
Vintage shopping Vintage clothes shops are everywhere, with some of the best selections you’ll find anywhere in the world. The area around Fabric has the best range, and Dezerter Vintage is worth seeking out.
Sulphur Bath No visit to Tbilisi is complete without a sulphur bath. Soak in the hot water, then get scrubbed down and soaped up – it’s a proper experience! We visited Kyiv Sulphur Spa, which is genuine local style.
Antiques Loads of antique shops around the city. Head over the Dry Bridge for the daily antique market.
Taste Local Cuisine Georgian food is delicious, and there’s no shortage of restaurants serving it. Most grocery stores also have wonderful delicatessens. Fresco Supermarket has a great deli section with names and ingredients in English. Don’t miss the eggplant with walnut.
Day Trips Georgia has a great public transport system, making most towns, sights, and attractions reachable in a day. Train and bus tickets are cheap. Tour operators also offer trips to every corner of the country, which can be easier than attempting to reach remote locations on your own.
DAY TRIPS from Tbilisi
Mtskheta Catch the train from Station Square or a bus from Didube Station to reach this picturesque town on the banks of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, where you can explore old cathedrals, monasteries, and fortresses. or the best views, take a taxi up to Jvari Church on the hill — taxis usually wait near the bus station, and around 20 GEL is a fair price. A nice spot to eat is Ada Café, down by the river, offering good food, great views, and friendly staff.
Goris The birthplace of Stalin, Goris features his large statue, his bulletproof train carriage, his childhood home, and a museum. The town also has an old fortress with great views, and some impressive historic buildings. Goris is easy to reach by train from Station Square or by bus from Didube. For lunch, Chinebuli, across from the park, is a decent local eatery – the corn bread was delicious.
Uplistsikhe An ancient cave city that once housed around twenty thousand people. It’s a fascinating place to explore. Wander through theatres, tunnels, markets, churches, and even a winery carved in the cliffs. The easiest way to get there is by taxi from Goris — it’s about a twenty-minute ride. Expect to pay around 30 GEL for the driver to take you out, wait a couple of hours, and bring you back to Goris.
Vardzia The old cave city is truly remarkable – a visit here is a highlight. While it’s possible to reach by bus, the journey involves multiple changes. The easiest option is to join a group tour, which usually also stops at Akhaltsikhe to visit Rabati Castle and Borjomi to sample the famous mineral water. Most tour operators in Tbilisi offer trips along this route. It’s a long day – around seventeen hours – but well worth it for the cave city. Shop around for tours, as discounted tickets are often available online, sometimes at half price. Bring your own lunch and snacks, as the first stop to eat is usually around 3 pm, and options at the restaurant are limited.
Davit Gareja One of Georgias most visited sites, the monastery complex sits on the border with Azerbaijan. Some parts may be closed depending on the political situation between the two countries. During the summer, a bus departs daily at 11 am from outside the Tourist Information Centre in Tbilisi. If you have your own car, the complex can be reached in around three hours.
Getting around Tbilisi
It’s easy and inexpensive to get around Tbilisi and the rest of Georgia. The city has a metro – quick, affordable, and efficient (just hold on tight!). Regular green buses service the city, and the popular marshrutky – minibus-style shared taxis – are everywhere. Tbilisi is also pedestrian friendly, with parks, walkways, and traffic free areas that make exploring on foot a pleasure.
The people are proud and strong, holding onto tradition.
Telavi
The largest town in Georgia’s Kakheti region, Telavi is a convenient base for exploring the surrounding area and visiting the many nearby wineries. The town itself has historical sights, good restaurants, comfortable accommodation, and plenty of vineyards to explore.
Getting to Telavi
Situated east of Tbilisi, at the base of the Caucasus Mountains, the drive here takes two to three hours. To make the most out of the Kakheti region, having your own car is the best bet. Daily buses head this way from Tbilisi, and day trips to the area are also very popular.
Where to stay in Telavi
Guesthouses and hotels are plentiful, covering most budgets. Airbnbs are also available. It’s not a massive town, so staying anywhere near the town centre would be a good choice.
Where to eat and drink in Telavi
Kakheti is Georgia’s wine heartland, so almost every meal is paired with local wine, and many wineries offer tastings or small bites. Locals gave us top recommendations for where to eat and where to find the best dumplings – another must-try here. The central market is the heart of Telavi and the best place to find fresh, local produce.
- Get to Zodiako (popular place at the top of town, especially for dumplings. The mushroom khinkali is delicious)
- Don’t miss Bazari (the central market, with amazing fresh produce and local cheeses)
- Check out Sesikeli Winery (a small, family-run winery. Simon is welcoming, and you can taste six wines for 30 GEL)
Things to see and do in Telavi
Batonistsikhe Castle sits in the middle of town, and houses the local museum.
King Erekle Statue The king on his horseback overlooks the valley behind the castle.
The Giant Plane Tree is a popular and impressive natural landmark in the town.
DAY TRIPS from Telavi
Alaverdi Cathedral is only a short drive from Telavi. Along with nearby Ikalto Monastery, it offers some excellent photo opportunities. Nekresi Monastery is also close by, perched high on a hill and providing rewarding views of the surrounding countryside.
Gremi Fortress offers another chance to learn about Georgian history. Nearby, Temi Winery is a locally run community vineyard, and the perfect spot to take a break and sample some local grapes. Book in advance if you want to enjoy lunch.
Lagodekhi and the nearby protected area are a cool spot for getting into nature and enjoying some trekking. The information centre has helpful English speaking staff who will explain all the hiking options. We hiked to the Black Grouse Waterfall – a scenic a scenic two-hour trek each way that follows the river, with plenty of shade and beautiful scenery.
Sighnaghi calls itself the ‘city of love‘ and attracts more than its share of visitors. It is a charming hilltop town, with a museum to explore and old defensive walls and towers to wander through. It gets very busy, so try to avoid visiting on weekends.
Getting around Telavi
Most of the town’s attractions are in the centre and easily reached on foot from your accommodation. If you’re driving, be prepared for plenty of one-way streets to navigate. Taxis are never very far away if you need a lift.
Getting to Georgia
Daily flights connect Tbilisi and Batumi with Europe and the Middle East, with Istanbul serving as the main hub for other international connections. Borders with neighboring Turkey, Armenia, and Russia are open for entering and exiting the country. When we visited, it was not possible to enter Azerbaijan.
Useful things to know before visiting Georgia
Some Bank of Georgia (BOG) ATMs distribute Euros and US dollars. You’ll find one at Galleria Mall, and another at the airport.
Public transport is very affordable and you can get almost anywhere.
Dogs and cats are everywhere in the city. They are friendly.
If you plan on hiring a car, you need to be a confident driver – local drivers are crazy.
Be careful when using a pedestrian crossing, even when you have a green crossing signal.
Local food is available everywhere, it’s cheap, tasty, and you will have loads of options no matter what your diet.
Georgia is a perfect place to self-cater, with fresh fruit and vegetable markets and grocery stores all over the city. Dezerter Bazaar and the surrounding streets have everything you could ever need.
Not many of the older generation speak English, but younger people are more likely to.
Final thoughts on travelling in Georgia
We loved Georgia. It’s a traveller’s dream destination. With an abundance of quality food and wine, vintage markets, an old town, and beautiful tree-lined streets and parks, it’s no wonder that visitor numbers are on the rise. Outside Tbilisi, the countryside is steeped in history, with castles, forts, and monasteries waiting for the curious. Cave cities, mountains, national parks, and wineries lie within easy reach of the capital.
Georgia is an expressive country. People aren’t afraid to stand up for what they believe in. You won’t be greeted with instant friendliness; it’s not that type of place. You need to spend some time here before you are accepted and welcomed. Most visitors are here for only a few days and then leave. But you won’t truly understand the country in that short time. Georgia is a country where you will be rewarded for your time and efforts. It takes time to fit in and feel comfortable, but the experience is unforgettable. It’s a country we will remember. It’s a country we will miss. Georgia is a place we will come back to.