Interested in travelling slowly through a tranquil country? Wondering where to go for local flavours and authentic moments? Want to explore some inspiring conservation projects along the way? Laos – Discover the Authentic Side is our personal experience exploring this country in 2023. Our adventure includes Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Phonsavan and Pak Beng. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. Our guide reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
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Laos, ‘land of a million elephants.’ This might have been the case back in 1354, but now there are thought to be less than one thousand wild elephants left in the country. Land of a thousand rivers would be more appropriate these days. These rivers serve as a major transportation network, as they always have. Remote villages only accessible by long boat remain as they have for hundreds of years. Heavily bombed during the neighbouring Vietnam war, work still continues to remove unexploded mines and devices. But this hasn’t made the Laotian people resentful, far from it. They are a calm and peaceful people, and as a result, the country has a pleasant and passive atmosphere.
Why go to Laos?
Laos is a welcoming country. Its people are humble and loving. It relaxes you and you can’t help but fall into the gentle flow of each day. The natural wonders and landscapes add to the beauty of the country. Laos has preserved cultural traditions and has three UNESCO World Heritage sights – Luang Prabang, The Plain of Jars and Vat Phou. It’s a rewarding destination to visit, with parts of the country remaining largely unexplored, and you may not see any other visitors. Laos is a country with much to offer, and for whatever reason you choose to visit, it will be impossible not to be affected by the serenity of its people.
- Capital: Vientiane
- Best time to visit: October – April (wet season is May to September)
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU $100 per day
- Currency: Laotian KIP (KIP13,000 = AU$1)
- Language: Lao
- Visa: Yes
- Difficulty: 1 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Vientiane
Located on the banks of the Mekong river, Vientiane and its people – like the Mekong – go about life slowly and peacefully. With a relaxed, chilled vibe both day and night, plenty of healthy and delicious places to eat, and enough sights to keep you amused, Vientiane is well worth a stop. Our favourite city, it also makes a perfect base for heading north or south through the country.
Getting to Vientiane
Wattay International Airport is jus 15 minutes from downtown Vientiane. It’s well served by international flights from neighbouring Asian countries and is the quickest and easiest way to arrive. Overland travel by bus from Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia is also possible.
Where to stay in Vientiane
We stayed in an Airbnb near Parkson Mall — a convenient base close to shops, local markets, the Central Bus Station, and most attractions. Another popular area is along Th Setthathirath Road by the river, home to the Night Market, restaurants, and shops. Vientiane has plenty of guesthouses and hotels for all budgets, and anywhere central works well — the city is walkable, with tuk-tuks everywhere.
Where to eat and drink in Vientiane
With a large local population of monks, Vientiane has an impressive range of plant-based food options. Fresh fruit and vegetable markets are plentiful, making self-catering easy. The Night Market outside Parkson Mall is busy and offers a good mix of local food stalls, and the mall itself has a large supermarket for essentials. There are plenty of solid options for all diets across the city. In the evenings, the bars and eateries along Th Setthathirath Road have a great atmosphere. We also enjoyed afternoon drinks on our balcony – Cloud 9 is a liquor store with a good variety and reasonable prices.
- Check out Vegetarian in the Golden Age (also called Master RUMA, run by nuns, the food is fresh and has beautiful flavours)
- Don’t miss Coco&Co Vegan (we loved returning for awesome smoothies and sweet treats)
- Get to Khouadin Vegetarian (this delicious all you can eat vegetable buffet gets packed with locals over lunchtime, so get in early)
Things to see and do in Vientiane
COPE Visitor Centre is a museum which shares the history and effects of cluster bombs. COPE provide mobility devices to those injured by cluster bombs and is a wonderful charity to support with a donation at the end of your visit.
The Buddha Park is a nice half-day excursion. We caught Bus 14 from the Central Bus Station — it runs every 30 minutes and took about 45 minutes to reach the park. The park is small, so an hour is enough to explore.
Wander around the city in the day – visit Patuxai War Monument and some of the many Wats (temples). We walked daily, discovering new temples, strolling along the river, finding a curry for lunch, and meeting street vendors while buying beautiful fruits. An easy and enjoyable way to get a feel for the city.
Treat yourself to a Thai Massage. Utopia Massage was excellent. Great prices too.
The Night Market has a lively atmosphere. There are lovely spots along the river to sit with a cold drink and do some people watching.
Getting around Vientiane
Tuk-tuks are everywhere, ready to whisk you around, though we mostly walked — Vientiane is a pleasant city to explore on foot, and you can cross it in around 40 minutes. Scooters and bicycles are also popular to hire. Tour operators in busy areas can take you anywhere for a negotiable price, and the local bus service reaches destinations outside the city.
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a rich cultural experience. Nestled between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, the city features morning monk ceremonies, an attractive old town, and enough sites and day trips to keep you busy for a week, Luang Prabang is deservedly on all itineraries. Good transport connections make it a great base for exploring northern areas of the country. It’s a little more expensive than other towns, and attracts many tourists, but it’s worth it.
Getting to Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang has an international airport and is easily reached from neighbouring countries. A short ten-minute ride from the airport will get you to the heart of the city. We arrived on the new fast train from Vang Vieng, which took about one and a half hours. It was then a quick twenty-minute van ride into Luang Prabang.
Another popular option is the slow boat from Pak Beng, which takes around eight hours. The terminal is about a ten-minute scooter ride past the airport along the river, and onward transport from the ferry terminal into town is easy to arrange.
Where to stay in Luang Prabang
Guesthouses are plentiful, while Airbnbs are a little harder to find. We stayed near the Sofitel Hotel — a great area, about a twenty-minute walk to both the Southern Bus Station and Night Market — and also spent time in the Old City, which we liked for its concentration of bars, cafes, and the early morning Alms Giving Ceremony. There are options for every budget, and it’s wise to book ahead during peak times.
Where to eat and drink in Luang Prabang
Restaurants and cafes are everywhere, with some really nice spots to eat along the river to enjoy the sunset. Standards vary, so have a good look around. The Morning Market is perfect for fresh fruit and vegetables if self-catering, while Kingkitsarath Road has some quieter local eateries away from the Mekong side.
- Don’t miss Two Little Birds Cafe (we loved the smoothie bowls and green curry)
- Get to the Night Market outdoor food court (good vibes and plenty of options, gets busy)
- Check out LPMC ‘Luang Prabang Motorcycle Club (decent selection of beers and spirits, nice tunes, comfy seating, good for people watching)
Things to see and do in Luang Prabang
Wander No surprise, there are plenty more Wats (temples) to explore. Strolling along the river and through the Old City never gets old, plus there are lots of nice spots to stop for a coffee, meal, or drink. It’s also interesting to explore the back streets and see how locals live.
Free the Bears Sanctuary This sanctuary isn’t open to the public without booking through freethebears.org. It houses over 80 sun and moon bears, all rescued and preparing for release, as well as red pandas, Savannakhet deer, monkeys, and occasionally pangolins. It’s a fantastic initiative and well worth visiting. The sanctuary is a bit tricky to reach – not all tuk-tuk drivers know the way. We took about an hour on a scooter, following the small blue signs to the National Park along a bumpy, dusty road. Pick-up and drop-off can also be arranged after booking.
Kuang Si Falls and Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue A beautiful spot, but very touristy, so it gets busy. It’s about a forty-five-minute scooter ride from town on a sealed road. Park your scooter, purchase your ticket, and take the electric bus up to the entrance. Free the Bears also runs a smaller Bear Rescue Centre here, included with your entry ticket.
The Morning Market is worth the early start. You’ll find everything from fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables to local specialties like fried rat and toad, along with crafts and souvenirs. It’s located down by Wat May Souvannapoumaram.
Day trips Popular options include visiting rice farms, the Elephant Sanctuary, waterfalls, and enjoying sunset cruises.
Getting around Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is easy to explore on foot, by bicycle, tuk-tuk, or scooter. We walked the majority of the time and used a scooter for our day trips further afield. Many hotels and guesthouses offer bicycles – check before you book.
It’s a place where the slower you travel, the more you will experience.
Phonsavan
Phonsavan is a sprawling city surrounded by countryside, with enough to keep you occupied for a few days. Sitting at over 1,000 metres above sea level, evenings are cool and it can get a bit windy. The UNESCO-listed Plain of Jars can be found a short distance away – well worth the long van ride. We loved our time here.
Getting to Phonsavan
We arrived by van from Luang Prabang, a slow seven-and-a-half-hour journey on rough roads, but with beautiful scenery. Vans from Vang Vieng take around eight hours. The Phonsavan Bus Station is on the outskirts, about a 30-minute walk to the centre, though a tuk-tuk may be available. There is only one van per day, so book ahead through guesthouses or tour companies. Return vans to Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng depart at 8:30 am, with a half-hour lunch stop along the way. There are toilet stops too – the driver will randomly pull over so everyone can pile out for a quick wee on the side of the road.
Where to stay in Phonsavan
Plenty of affordable guesthouses and hotels all over the place. Basing yourself in the centre of town will give you easy access to restaurants, tour options, and scooter hire. We stayed a little out of town and used the free bicycles that our guesthouse provided. Not as many travellers as the major cities, so prices are cheaper. Many places include breakfast.
Where to eat and drink in Phonsavan
Phonsavan doesn’t get the visitor numbers of Luang Prabang, so not all of the restaurants have English menus. There’s not as many options, or variety, as other cities either. Plenty of good fruit and vegetables, with a couple of large markets, and smaller stalls along the main roads. Watermelons are everywhere, truck loads! Try the Nashi pears, they are delicious.
- Top spot is Bombie’s Restaurant (great yellow curry, the friendly and knowledgeable owner who does Plain of Jars tours. Decorated with old war relics)
- Check out Nisha Indian Restaurant for dinner (best range of vegetarian in town)
- Get to Simmaly Restaurant (green building on the main street, English menu, busy with locals and travellers, quick service, great prices and large portions)
Things to see and do in Phonsavan
Plain of Jars is the obvious attraction here. There are more than 90 sites, Sites 1,2 & 3 being the main ones. Site 3 was our favourite, set amongst trees, and a pleasant walk through rice fields. It’s around forty-five minutes by scooter from town. Site 2 is also very scenic, on top of a hill under some trees, taking around thirty minutes by scooter from the town centre. We had the site to ourselves which added to the feel of the place. Site 1 is only ten minutes from town, has the most jars, and the most people! Very touristy. You pay to park, then you get a buggy ride to the site, or walk fifteen minutes. Although Site 1 has the most jars, we found it the least scenic, being in an open field near the airport. It does have one of the largest jars. All 3 sites have a ticket booth. The signage for Sites 2 & 3 is very small so keep your eyes peeled.
Ban Napia,or the Spoon Village, is a worthwhile trip. The locals melt down old bombs and metal to make spoons and trinkets, then sell them for a small fee. The whole family gets involved. Really good cause. It was hard to find. It’s about fifteen minutes from Site 3. Take a left when you get back to the main road after Site 3, then when you reach the first village, go right over the bridge, then look for the Spoon Village sign on the right shortly after the bridge. Follow this road, past the power station, over the hill, and down the other side. You will see the stalls on the side of the road.
The Organic Mulberry Farm, near the bus station on the main road, is a really interesting visit. You get a free tour of the farm and silk factory to see the whole process of how everything is made. There is a nice little shop at the end to buy some mulberry wine and tea. Not a bad drop, another good cause. It’s an easy bike ride from the city centre.
The Xiengkhoung Provincial Museum was worth a look. Some interesting displays and four short movies to watch.
Getting around Phonsavan
An organised tour or hiring a scooter is the only way of reaching Sites 2 and 3. Site 1 could be reached by bicycle. You can walk or bike to the museum and other points of interest in town.
Pak Beng
Pak Beng is the halfway point on the slow boat journey from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai (Thailand border). It’s a small village, positioned on a sweeping bend in the Mekong. You will spend a night here, but if you have the time, spend a couple. Busy in the mornings and in the evenings, when the slow boats arrive and depart, it’s very quiet during the day. Great place just to chill out. Not a great deal to do around town, the main excursion being the Elephant Sanctuary across the river.
Getting to Pak Beng
The slow boat takes eight to nine hours to Luang Prabang and seven to eight hours to Huay Xai. It’s comfortable enough, with nice scenery. Bring food, drinks, and a book, as only basics like beer, coffee, and instant noodles are available on board. If you’re in a hurry, speedboats make the trip in about half the time.
Where to stay in Pak Beng
Lots of guesthouses and hostels, who will pick you up and drop you off at the slow boat landing. Some nicer places around to splurge, with cool views over the river. Very small village, so you won’t be far from the action wherever you stay.
Where to eat and drink in Pak Beng
We found some fantastic places to eat, and the owners were lovely to chat with. The food here is freshly made and well worth the wait. Restaurants get busy when the boats arrive, so lunchtime is usually quieter, often leaving you with the place to yourself.
- Stop at Sabaidee restaurant (we loved the beautiful plant-based options and nice setting)
- Check out Hasan Indian (very friendly, family run, offers a wide variety of dishes, with good vegetarian/vegan options), samosas are great)
- Get to Sanctuary Pak Beng (for a drink on the balcony overlooking the river and the best selection of wine)
Things to see and do in Pak Beng
The Elephant Sanctuary is straight across the river. They will pick you up with their boat from the Sanctuary Pak Beng Hotel around 8.30am. You can choose from a number of different experiences. We took the two-hour option (US$50 per person), it was awesome! All proceeds go to the conservation of the elephants, and the team here are doing an amazing job. There is a restaurant and a small shop to visit at the end of the tour.
Wander up the main street to the small local market up the top of town. We got some fruit and peanuts and enjoyed engaging with the locals. Stop at a local restaurant on your way back, some lovely options.
Getting around Pak Beng
You can walk anywhere around town.
Getting to Laos
Access is easy by plane, bus, or boat from neighbouring countries. We flew from Bangkok to Vientiane. Laos has two international airports, in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. It’s also popular to enter via Chiang Rai, crossing over the Friendship Bridge and connecting with the slow boat at Huay Xai.
Like this kind of adventure? You might also enjoy exploring Timor-Leste
Useful things to know before visiting Laos
People are friendly and helpful. We always felt safe wherever we went.
English and French aren’t widely spoken. Lao is the main language, so learning a few basic phrases helps – sabaidi means hello.
Take it slow. Things move at a relaxed pace here, so don’t be in too much of a hurry.
There’s plenty of delicious eating options for vegans and vegetarians.
A lot of the roads are in poor condition, road travel can take time, especially between rural destinations.
Visas are available on arrival at major airports for around US$40 — no photo required.
Currency exchange is available at the airport. The duty-free shop is very small and limited.
Final thoughts on travelling in Laos
Laos is a country you will want to return to. It’s a place where you could spend months wandering around soaking up its rich culture and heritage. The delicious food, welcoming locals, and affordability make it an even more appealing destination. Things here happen slowly. It’s a place where the slower you travel, the more you will experience. It’s a country that rewards people who want to explore its remote corners and take the time to reach them. Unlike its neighbours, Laos still sees relatively few travellers, so you’ll often have attractions all to yourself. But change is coming — with high-speed trains and new motorways under construction, visitor numbers are bound to rise. It won’t stay this way forever. A transformation is underway in Laos — whether for better or worse, only time will tell.