Looking for an off-the-beaten-path island paradise? Wondering where Sao Tome and Principe is and why it’s worth visiting? Sao Tome and Principe – Where It Is and Why You Should Visit is our personal experience exploring this country in 2024. Our adventure includes both Sao Tome Island and its smaller neighbour, Principe. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. Our guide reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
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Sao Tome and Principe, ‘the chocolate islands‘. These small islands in the Gulf of Guinea were once the world’s largest cacao producers and now produce some of the world’s finest chocolate. If you love chocolate, coffee, fresh seafood, jungle and beaches, then Sao Tome and Principe is a dream destination! It remains one of the least-visited countries in the world, thanks to its remote location. Getting here isn’t easy – but once you arrive, you won’t want to leave. Yet the secret is slowly getting out. Travellers are coming, progress is happening, and nothing stays untouched forever.
Why go to Sao Tome and Principe?
Sao Tome and Principe are covered in tropical rainforest, dotted with hidden waterfalls and old volcanic craters. Colourful birds, unusual exotic fruits, and giant trees give the islands a lost world feel. Old plantation estates – now inhabited by resourceful locals – are scattered across both islands, reminders of how busy this place must have been in its prime. Coffee and cacao still make up 95% of the country’s exports and continue to support the economy much as they always have. There’s no shortage of golden beaches, fresh rivers, and unforgettable scenery. Often, your only company will be a friendly wandering dog. Locals are warm and welcoming, and there’s endless opportunity for hiking, farm stays, chocolate tasting, or pure relaxation. Sao Tome and Principe is what dreams are made of. It doesn’t disappoint.
- Capital: Sao Tome
- Best time to visit: June – March (wet season is March to July)
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$100 per day
- Currency: Sao Tomean Dobra (STN15 = AU$1)
- Language: Portuguese
- Visa: Yes
- Difficulty: 2 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Sao Tome
With its relaxed vibe, Sao Tome feels more like a town than a city. Set on a quiet bay and surrounded by jungles and beaches, it’s the busiest part of the island – everything happens here. With decaying buildings from the Portuguese days, and tree lined streets, it’s a pleasant place. There are a few hotels, supermarkets, restaurants, and plenty of bars, but nothing happens in a hurry – sitting around and waiting is just part of life. With the rest of the island within easy reach, Sao Tome makes an ideal base for day trips.
Getting to Sao Tome
The easiest way to reach Sao Tome is via Lisbon, Portugal. There are also flights from Angola, Gabon, and Ghana. Flights can be expensive, so get in early.
Where to stay in Sao Tome
The city center is the obvious place to stay, though Airbnb’s and guesthouses are becoming increasingly popular both in town and in the surrounding villages. Spending time in one of the inland villages is a memorable experience, but you need to remember that transport will be required, resources will be limited and conditions basic. The quality and value of accommodations vary, so it pays to do some research. We’ve stayed all over the island – nowhere has been perfect. Don’t expect luxury five-star options. You can be sure that wherever you choose, your host will go out of their way to make your stay comfortable. A place with a water view is a definite bonus. Around the fort, it can get noisy on the weekends, as this is the main area for parties. All-inclusive resorts can be found further down the coast.
Where to eat and drink in Sao Tome
Seafood is naturally the staple on the islands, with fish and octopus being the most common options. These are usually served with fried plantain (banana). Vegetables are harder to find, though some places serve a vegetable curry. Local beer and palm wine are easy to find. Street vendors selling fruit and vegetables are scattered around town, and a bit of bartering is often required to get a fair price.
The largest selection of fruit can be found along the main road near Diogo Vaz Café, where women set up daily stalls offering juicy pineapples, large papayas, and whatever else is in season. SUPER CKDO is the biggest and most well-stocked grocery store on the island. We also discovered a small vegetable shop opposite Supermercado Colombo, perfect for self-catering supplies. Fresh coconuts appear along the canal most mornings, and women set up little stalls on street corners selling donuts, battered fish, and other homemade snacks.
- Get to Papa Figo’s (the go to spot for locals and visitors. They serve a tasty vegetable curry)
- Don’t miss B24 (one of the original restaurants in the park. Good size portions come with rice and fried bananas)
- Check out Diogo Vaz (recently opened chocolate café. Serves 100% locally made and sourced chocolate, ice cream and cakes)
Things to see and do in Sao Tome
Visit the Fort The fort also houses the National Museum.
Walk along the waterfront Go early in the morning or in the evening to see the fisherman and old boats, and catch stunning sunrises and sunsets.
Hire a car The easiest way to explore the island. Wilson offers four reliable cars from Euro 35 per day. Contact +239 904 6251
Coffee Museum Learn how the island thrived during its plantation days, and enjoy a local coffee at Monte Café next door.
Botanical Gardens and Saint Nicolas Waterfall Incredible views from over 1,000 metres above sea level.
Sample local produce Visit local shops like Ubaga or Kua Tela to buy locally made liqueurs, oils, coffee, chocolate, and other handmade products.
Getting around Sao Tome
Taxis and yellow minibuses congregate around the central market and Continental Supermarket to take you out of town. Motorbike taxis are also easy to find all over the city. You can walk across Sao Tome in about thirty minutes.
If you love chocolate, coffee, fresh seafood, jungle and beaches, then Sao Tome and Principe is a dream destination!
Principe – Santo Antonio
Even wilder and more remote is Principe, the smaller island that makes up the rest of the country. Covered in tropical jungle, the small town of Santo Antonio serves as the main hub. The few visitors who make it here usually stay in one of the up-scale resorts along the coast. There’s only a single small store with very basic supplies. Exploring the island independently is very difficult – having a car is essential, and hire options are limited. Guides are available but can be expensive. Principe is raw and largely untouched, and independent travel isn’t easy. Forget about tourist information – you may be the only visitor. You’ll feel like Robinson Crusoe, shipwrecked on a tropical island. That’s the true allure of Principe.
Getting to Principe
A couple of flights arrive on Principe from Sao Tome each day – a quick forty-five minute journey. The only other way to reach the island is by a ten to twelve hour boat ride from Sao Tome, which is not recommended.
Where to stay in Santo Antonio
With Principe seeing very little in the way of travellers, accommodation options are limited. Palhota Residential Guesthouse is one of the best choices, offering comfortable rooms, decent Wi-Fi, and breakfast.
Where to eat and drink in Santo Antonio
Restaurants in Santo Antonio aren’t cheap – prices are roughly twice what you’d pay in Sao Tome. Fried fish with rice and banana is the staple, but we also found delicious home-cooked beans and potato chips. Keep an eye out for where the locals eat; sometimes a restaurant is just a couple of tables set up outside a simple shack. Self-catering is tricky, as we couldn’t find accommodation with facilities to cook. With any luck, your host will provide breakfast.
- Get to Beira Mar (typical island-style food, large servings, and quick service. Mains around Dobra 250)
- Don’t miss Mira Rio (serves both snacks and mains, with some of the best views on the island)
- Check out the small unnamed local-style restaurant (located on the street behind the church. Music is usually loud, but it offers the best-priced meals in town, with mains around Dobra 70)
Things to see and do in Santo Antonio
Igreja Catolica Principes main landmark.
Immerse yourself in the small local market. The only place to find any fruit and vegetables. Be prepare to haggle.
Banana Beach The islands most popular beach.
Charter a Boat Some of the best views of the island are from the water.
Hire a Car The easiest way to explore the limited roads and reach some hiking trails.
Hiking options are plentiful, but trails are often overgrown and poorly marked. The only way to reach most trails them is by private car.
Getting around Principe
The only public transport on Principe is motorbike taxis. Santo Antonio can easily be explored on foot in an hour or so. Hiring a car is the best bet to see other parts of the island. Expect to pay around Euro 60 per day.
Getting to Sao Tome and Principe
Principe can only be reached via Sao Tome. Flying into Sao Tome is the best – and essentially the only – way to begin exploring these obscure islands.
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Useful things to know before visiting Sao Tome and Principe
The airports are tiny – don’t expect any duty free. There is a currency exchange outside Sao Tome Airport.
Dogs are everywhere.
Some roads are in poor condition.
It’s a very safe country.
Sao Tome has most things you’ll need.
Principe has very few supplies, and they are expensive.
Drinking is a popular pastime on Principe.
Money changers are easy to find around the centre of town in Sao Tome.
Steet lighting is non- existent or very poor.
Sunday is party night.
E-sim will not work here. Buy a local SIM card.
Final thoughts on travelling in Sao Tome and Principe
Sao Tome is one of our favourite destinations. It’s laid back, raw, and natural. People are friendly and genuinely happy that you are visiting their country. The island offers fascinating history, an appealing culture, and a cuisine focused on seafood and locally grown produce. Locally made chocolate and coffee are world class, and their production is becoming increasingly popular. With its dense rainforest, large parts of the island remain largely deserted, and you will feel like an explorer. Time seems to slip away here, and you find yourself being lured into the carefree atmosphere. The outside world is easily forgotten. Life is good. Getting here isn’t easy – but that’s part of the attraction. If Sao Tome were simple to reach, it would be overrun with visitors. With efforts underway to attract more visitors, flights becoming more frequent, and cruise ships beginning to arrive, things will no doubt slowly change. The time to visit Sao Tome and Principe is now. Paradise awaits.