Want to experience the authentic charm of Armenia? Curious about where to find some off the beaten path attractions? Armenia – A Guide to Its Lesser-Known Wonders is our personal experience exploring this country in 2024. Our adventure includes Yerevan, Areni, Goris and Dilijan. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. Our guide reflects our travel style and aims to provide useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
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Armenia ‘the land of churches and monasteries.’ With thousands of these structures scattered across the country, it’s easy to understand it earned this name. ‘Land of the resilient’ would also be fitting. With an ancient culture, and a complicated and often tragic past, if might be expected that Armenians would be cold or unwelcoming. But this couldn’t be further from the truth. The Armenian people are warm and friendly. Beyond the cities, the countryside is vast and quiet, the landscapes spectacular, and opportunities for adventure are abundant. Armenia is a destination where it’s hard not to be inspired.
Why go to Armenia?
Medieval fortresses, abandoned cave cities, jaw-dropping scenery, and even a wine growing region, are just some of the many things that the curious traveller can discover in Armenia. Yerevan, the capital, is a modern, bustling city with plenty to offer. The rest of the country boasts world class points of interests, most of which are within easy reach. Yes, there are loads of monasteries, but often it’s the locations and the drives to reach them that can be the main experience. National Parks and Reserves provide ample hiking options, and outdoor activities are growing in popularity. All this, combined with laid-back locals, make travelling in Armenia a rewarding and memorable experience.
- Capital: Yerevan
- Best time to visit: May – October
- Budget/Mid-Range/Couple: AU$130 per day
- Currency: Armenian Dram (AMD260 = AU$1)
- Language: Armenian
- Visa: No
- Difficulty: 2 (1-basic & 5-challenging)
Yerevan
Yerevan will surprise you. It’s a modern, vibrant city. Museum’s, monuments, and galleries provide a glimpse into the past and a chance to learn about Armenia’s history. Cafes, wine bars, and restaurants fill the tree lined streets, which become crowded with people in the evenings. Fast cars, designer clothes, and fancy stores seem to be the scene here. But parks filled with statues and monuments are never more than a block or two away, and are a popular place for socialising, often with men playing backgammon. Yerevan is a place where you could easily spend a couple of days or more.
Getting to Yerevan
With connections to most of Europe and several Middle Eastern destinations, flying to Yerevan is easy and affordable. Minibuses make multiple trips per day between Yerevan and neighbouring Tbilisi, and an overnight train makes the journey a few times per week in the summer. Bus 201 connects Yerevan Airport to the city every thirty minutes, where you can link with the local metro.
Where to stay in Yerevan
Accommodation options are plentiful, with all budgets covered. Staying near one of the many parks is a good idea, and having a metro station within walking distance is a bonus, as many sights are on the outskirts of the city.
We stayed in a great Airbnb near Circular Park and Zoravar Metro, with the city centre just an easy walk away.
Where to eat and drink in Yerevan
The food scene in Yeveran is amazing, with restaurants, bars, and cafes. Quality and prices vary, so a good tip is to check where the locals are eating. All diets are covered, with a great variety of local cuisine. Keep an eye out for small bakeries making bread the traditional way.
- Get to Future Diner (a cool place offering local, organic ingredients, with heaps of vegan options)
- Don’t miss StrEAT Food (buffet-style local eatery with a great selection and prices. Popular with locals)
- Check out Gluten Free Bakery (a small local bakery offering some of the tastiest cakes and treats. Look in the fridge for the vegan slices!)
Things to see and do in Yerevan
Yerevan is a museum lover’s paradise. Squares, statues, and monuments decorate the streets, while other attractions outside the city are easily reached by bus or taxi. Day trips are also offered by tour companies all over the city.
Armenian Genocide Memorial Museum A powerful place of reflection. Very powerful. Not to be missed.
National Opera and Ballet Theatre Yerevan is a great place to catch an opera or ballet, with very affordable tickets and numerous shows. We saw The Nutcracker, and it was a wonderful experience.
The Cascade stairs are home to the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. Make your way to the top and enjoy panoramic views of the city. Keep exploring nearby to find the Mother of Armenia statue in the adjoining park.
Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery can be easily combined on a day trip from Yerevan. Avoid on weekends! Accessible by bus with a bit of planning. The number one trip for tour operators. A lot of the monastery is closed off, but there are some good short walks nearby.
Getting around Yerevan
Yerevan has a practical metro, a single line running North to South, which is super cheap and easy to use. Traffic in the centre is aways bumper to bumper, so walking is the best way to get around. Buses and minivans head in every direction, with numbers displayed on the bus indicating the route. The main bus and train stations are located outside the city centre. The train station is connected by the metro station Sasuntsi. The bus station has no nearby metro or direct city centre connections. A taxi is your best bet.
Head out of the capital, and it can feel as though little has changed for hundreds of years.
Areni
Areni, the wine capital of Armenia, is a small, charming village filled with wineries and roadside stalls selling locally grown wine and fresh produce. Located on the main road south, it’s a popular stop for lunch and a drink on the way to Goris. But consider staying for a few days, as there are plenty of local vineyards to visit and wine to taste. A short drive out of town leads to one of Armenia’s most scenic monasteries, along with caves and a cliff-top fortress. The locals are welcoming, the wine is tasty, and life feels good here.
Getting to Areni
Less than two hours by bus or car from Yerevan, reaching Areni is straightforward. Situated on the main highway running through the country, it’s not a hard place to get to.
Where to stay in Areni
Guesthouses and Airbnb’s can be found around town, though the selection is limited since most visitors only stop here briefly. Being a small village, anywhere in town makes for convenient stay. A couple of local wineries also offer homestays, and we found a decent Airbnb at the bottom of town.
Where to eat and drink in Areni
There are a number of eating options along the main street, many of which are popular with tour groups. Prices can be high and the quality can vary. Several local wineries offer lunch and wine tasting, serving delicious homemade produce. Pre-booking is usually required.
- Don’t miss Areni Wine Winery (one of our favourites. Six wines, homemade snacks, and a pleasant atmosphere)
- Check out Wine House Mher (family-run, serves wine and lunch. Also sells wine by the glass)
- Visit one of the roadside stalls (selling wine and fruit. Ask for a sample; wine is sold by the litre. Keep an eye out for where the locals stop, a good indication of quality)
- Get to Yeghegnadzor Food Court (a short drive away, this place has the best selection in the area. Friendly staff, some speak English)
Things to see and do in Areni
Wine Tasting is on everyone’s agenda here. You could spend a week here and still not visit them all.
Noravank is one of the most spectacular spots in the country. Arrive early. Not to be missed.
Areni-1 and Magellan Caves can be explored on a thirty-minute guided tour. No English available. Both are on the road to Noravank.
Smbataberd Fortress Perched atop a cliff, reachable by old jeeps waiting on the road at the bottom. The trip takes around twenty minutes. AMD12,000-15,000 for a return trip per jeep.
Getting around Areni
Areni is best explored on foot, especially if you plan on doing some wine tasting! To reach sights just out of town, you will need a car. Minibuses run along the main roads, where you can hop off and catch a lift for the last leg.
Goris
Goris is our favourite town in Armenia. It’s often overlooked, with most visitors stopping briefly for lunch on their way to Tatev. But Goris has plenty to offer for the curious traveller. It’s a great place to spend a few quiet nights after exploring the nearby abandoned cave cities or hiking in the surrounding hills. Tree-lined streets and welcoming residents give the town a calm and peaceful atmosphere. The old part of town has ancient stone houses that have survived the Soviet era.
Getting to Goris
Goris is around a five-hour drive from Yerevan, with numerous attractions along the way to break up the journey. Two minivans depart daily from outside Sasuntsi Metro station in Yerevan, taking about six hours to reach Goris.
Where to stay in Goris
Finding a local guesthouse isn’t difficult. The town isn’t flat, so consider this when booking. Places on the hill have the best views but require an uphill walk when returning from the town centre, where restaurants and supermarkets are located.
We stayed at Hayi Tun Guesthouse at the top of town. It’s a good choice for those with a car, with easy access to the main road.
Where to eat and drink in Goris
There’s understandably not a massive variety of eating establishments around town, but there are a few nice local places, some decent supermarkets, and plenty of fruit and vegetable stalls.
- Get to Tur Baza Cafe (hands down the best selection of food in town, with fantastic views across the river of Old Goris)
- Don’t miss Shane Supermarket (the place to get your groceries. Also has a popular food court serving local dishes. Space is limited, so avoid during the lunchtime)
- Check out Old Goris (local restaurant with lovely service and homemade food)
Things to see and do in Goris
Old Khndzoresk should be on everyone’s Armenian itinerary. Exploring the old cave dwellings was one of our most memorable experiences in the country. The location itself is spectacular, perched above a river in a gorge. Access is over a swing bridge, it’s free to enter, and nowhere is off limits. It’s the perfect place to bring a picnic. The drive from town takes around twenty-five minutes.
Tatev Monastery is the reason most people head this far south. Like many monasteries in the country, it’s often the location and journey to reach it that is the highlight. Tatev can be reached via a modern cable car – the world’s longest – with spectacular scenery along the way. It’s also possible to drive to the monastery, with a few worthwhile stops en route, including Satan’s Bridge. The site becomes very really busy after the first cable car arrives at 10am, so come early and you may have the place almost to yourself.
Old Goris Cave Dwellings lie just across the river in town. Inhabited as early as the 5th century, not much remains today, but there are still a few interesting features to explore, along with great views over Goris. There are more cave dwellings scattered throughout the surrounding hills.
Getting around Goris
Downtown Goris is easy to navigate on foot, and you can even walk to the cave dwellings across the river. However, sights out of town require a vehicle. Local taxis will take you wherever you want to go, and hitchhiking is common in Armenia. Minivans run to the turnoff, from where you’ll need to walk or catch a lift for the final stretch.
Dilijan
With a national park on its doorstep, and plenty of nature and greenery, pretty Dilijan is a popular getaway for people from Yerevan. Visitors flock here for the hiking and scenery, and the town can become very crowded and overrun on weekends and holidays. Dilijan is growing, with development already underway to meet demand, which will inevitably change the town. The area offers plenty of potential, but with the volume of visitors, you may need to be a little creative to find that peaceful forest escape.
Getting to Dilijan
Connected by regular minibus’s, you can easily make the trip from Yerevan in under two hours. With your own car, the journey takes around one and a half hours.
Where to stay in Dilijan
Dilijan is packed with guesthouses and hotels, they are everywhere. Staying in the town centre is convenient, but you may want to consider somewhere with a river or forest view. There are some nice places on the hill above town that are quiet and peaceful.
We found a great Airbnb near the river on Kalinin Street, in a local neighbourhood away from the tourists, yet close enough to walk into the centre.
Where to eat and drink in Dilijan
There are a few places to eat around town, which become packed during busy periods. Tsiran Supermarket at the top of town is modern and has the best selection of supplies, including fruit and vegetables for self-catering. One thing Dilijan isn’t short on is picnic spots – by the river or inside the National Park. Picnics are the perfect way to enjoy what the area is all about: nature, peace, and quiet, which is often missing in the busy town centre.
- Get to Hamov Ankyun Food Court (best selection in town, friendly ladies)
- Don’t miss Darchin Pastry and Cafe (delicious vegan cakes. The carrot cake was great)
- Check out Dili Coffee (awesome selection of coffee from all over the world. You can purchase beans, and have them ground, or brewed. Also sells cakes and treats)
Things to see and do in Dilijan
Dilijan National Park offers plenty of hiking and picnic opportunities. The Tourist Information Centre in town provides maps.
Haghartsin Monastery is set on the banks of a river surrounded by forest. Theres some short walks that depart from here. Avoid visiting on weekends if you want a quieter experience.
Goshavank Monastery is another easy trip from Dilijan and is generally less busy than Haghartsin.
Fallen Soviet Soldiers of WWII Monument is a short walk along the river from town.
Getting around Dilijan
The town centre is spread out, with lower and upper areas that can both be explored on foot. To reach Dilijan National Park and the monasteries out of town, a car or taxi is required. Public transport can drop you near points of interest, and when it’s busy, it’s often possible to catch a ride for the rest of the way.
Getting to Armenia
Flying to Armenia is easy, with connections to most of Europe, along with Middle Eastern destinations. Arriving by plane into Yeveran, or entering by bus from Georgia, are the two main options when it comes to accessing the country.
Our time in Armenia formed part of a three-month summer journey through the Caucasus, alongside memorable travels in Georgia and Azerbaijan.
Useful things to know before visiting Armenia
It gets very hot during the summer months.
Driving can be challenging and is best suited to those with prior experience.
Land borders with Azerbaijan are currently closed.
English is limited, particularly outside major tourist areas.
It’s safe.
A public toilet is almost non-existent. There are some by the Opera House.
Dress respectfully when entering monasteries or churches (covered shoulders and knees).
eSIM has good coverage across the country.
Final thoughts on travelling in Armenia
Armenia was a surprising place. It’s a destination where you leave with a different perspective than the preconceived picture you may have arrived with. There is a lot to take in. A history of conflict, genocide, and persecution will never be forgotten, and reminders of these times are visible throughout the country. Yet the people are resilient. They move forward while continuing their ancient traditions. Head out of the capital, and it can feel as though little has changed for hundreds of years. This is what the people want, to live their way, peacefully.
Yerevan, by contrast, is a busy city, modern and forever evolving. Life here has a more 21st-century feel – business and fast cars – yet the city’s story is easy to see in its buildings, statues, and parks. Armenia is a unique country, as are its people. Travelling here is a cultural and reflective experience – deeply rewarding. Come with an open mind, and you’ll leave with something more valuable than souvenirs, you will leave with a new appreciation of people, life, and travel.
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