Wondering whether it’s possible to travel in Western Sahara, or what you’ll actually find there? This Western Sahara travel guide (updated 2026) covers everything you need to know, from how to get there to what makes it worth visiting. Our adventure took us through Laayoune and Dakhla, offering a deeper look at what travel here is really like. We share our insights on where to stay, where to eat and drink, and things to see and do. Our travel style is independent and immersive, with a focus on practical tips and useful things to know before visiting this obscure destination.
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Western Sahara is a disputed territory in southern Morocco. Known as ‘Spanish Sahara‘ until 1976, the area is rich in phosphates but short on water, with the main water source coming from a desalination plant built in 2022. Western Sahara stretches from Tarfaya in the north to Mauritania in the south. Tarfaya is a small village on the unofficial border between Morocco and Western Sahara. Interestingly, the territory is home to the world’s second largest wall made of sand, stretching 2,700 km. It is sparsely populated and dominated by desert. Most travellers pass through on overland trips heading south. While it’s not easy to reach, visiting Western Sahara is rewarding.
Why go to Western Sahara?
Western Sahara is a unique and very isolated place, with dramatic landscapes and harsh living conditions. It’s a memorable experience because it feels so different. Beautiful sands and skies can change instantly with desert windstorms, and vibrant, friendly streets can suddenly become dusty and uncomfortable. The people who live here are resilient – they go about their day as usual, smiling, talking, and bringing life to the grey, dusty streets. Locals are curious, often saying hello, and are helpful, making you feel safe and welcome. The resources are basic, but people work hard to provide consistent quality in their products and services. Western Sahara has its own identity – it’s not Morocco or Mauritania. It’s distinct, unique and unlike anywhere else.
Quick facts for travelling in Western Sahara
- Capital: Laayoune
- Best time to visit: December to March
- Budget (mid-range couple): AU$80 per day
- Currency: Moroccan Dirham (MAD)
- Language: Arabic, Spanish, French
- Visa requirements: Not required for many nationalities (including Australians)
- Travel difficulty: 2 (1 = basic & 5 = challenging)
Our journey to Western Sahara was part of the Dakar Challenge – an overland adventure across the desert
Laayoune
Laayoune means ‘water source’ in Arabic, which was no doubt the case at some stage. Today, ‘city of sand dunes’ feels much more accurate. Laayoune is a city with grand plans, as you’ll notice when approaching the outskirts, where a grand archway under construction. This is followed by a long, tidy, palm-lined street, and finally a bridge that offers your first view of the city. Newer parts around the edges have large apricot-coloured buildings, while the city centre is older, with the usual mix of traffic, smells, sand, and dust. The central fountain, with a grand McDonalds next to it, shows that progress is coming and nowhere is outside its reach. Mini markets, cafes, fast food outlets, bakeries, and even a fresh sushi shop can be found, although fresh produce or restaurants are not always obvious at first glance. Signs and menus are in Arabic, but if you ask where or what something is, people are happy to help.
Getting to Laayoune
We drove from Sidi Ifni to Laayoune. The journey took seven hours with a few stops. The roads are in good condition. Wind turbines fill the horizon. Sand and more sand make it seem harsh and unwelcoming, but you will see people, tents, camels, herders and houses randomly during the drive, proof that it is not only hospitable, it’s also a home.
You can fly to Laayoune, but that would be missing the main attraction, the beautiful Sahara and the surprising life that it supports.
There’s plenty of new roads under construction. It’s unlikely these are for the expected tourism boom, more likely for the trucks to carry resources out of the area. Either way, it’s only going to be quicker and easier to get to Laayoune. Bring plenty of fuel and supplies. There are a few small towns along the way, with limited resources.
Where to stay in Laayoune
We chose to stay in an Airbnb apartment in the centre of town. It had a good range of new appliances (blender, oven, stovetop, TV) and a comfy bed. The host spoke English, and we were able to ask questions and get local recommendations. Whatever you manage to find, your host will be excited to see you and do whatever they can to make your stay pleasurable.
There’s basic hotels and some guesthouses around, but the nicer ones are usually booked by the UN staff or other officials who are in town.
Where to eat and drink in Laayoune
There are many cafes, mini markets and small shops with a variety of very basic staples. On our first walk around town, we found a small shop selling a handful of fruits and vegetables. There’s plenty of fresh bread around, and we came across a little bakery run by three lovely women who happily answered all our questions about their freshly made cakes and breads. Laayoune also offers fast food options if that’s your scene, including McDonalds, pizza and a food truck in the park.
The best vegetable and fruit market is at the top of town and is well worth the short trip to reach it. If you are self-catering, this place is a must visit. There’s a surprising variety of quality produce, and the stall holders are more than happy to chat. We love self-catering with local fresh ingredients, and enjoyed our daily catch-ups with the friendly vendors here.
- Don’t miss Marche aux Legumes et Fruits en Gros (a friendly local fruit and vegetable market)
- Get to Dar Elbaldi (small local eatery, tasty lentil soup and fresh bread)
- Check out Sushikom Sud (watch your sushi being prepared fresh while the owner shares his success story)
Things to see and do in Laayoune
Grand Mosque A pleasant walk through the surrounding streets leads you to the Grand Mosque.
Protection of Prehistoric Industries Association This small museum is privately run by a local guy who has collected hundreds of artefacts from his journeys through the desert. Opening times vary.
Wander the city The city itself is an attraction. The fact that it thrives in the surrounding environment is a wonder. Watching daily life unfold was one of the highlights of our time here – men drinking coffee in cafes, woman running errands dressed in colourful fabrics wrapped neatly around their bodies, traffic police managing roundabouts, and rubbish collectors keeping the streets clean. It’s also a great way to discover small shops, patisseries, and restaurants.
Getting around Laayoune
The town is easy enough to drive around if you have a car. Taxis are the main form of public transport, and the central areas are straightforward to explore on foot
It’s a memorable experience because it feels so different.
Dakhla
A kite and windsurfers paradise, Dakhla is obviously a very windy destination. There are plenty of resorts on the outskirts of town, while the city itself has vast areas of vacant land waiting for development. The scenery is incredible, and the weather is hot. Dakhla sees very little rain, so it’s dusty. The city sits on a windy waterfront, and the central streets a few blocks back offer some protection from the wind and dust.
People go about their business in the wind, dust, sand, or sun with an uplifting energy. The weather here was some of the harshest we experienced, yet it was simply another day in the lives of locals who went about their usual routines. Shops and restaurants line the streets, and street vendors push their carts to their daily spots. Mornings are slow, with fresh bread and tea luring a quiet crowd. Evenings are cooler, and late meals are popular.
Getting to Dakhla
We drove from Laayoune to Dakhla, a journey of of 6.5 hours. The road is in good condition, and there’s non-stop scenery – coastline, shipwrecks, homes, and tents. You’ll also pass through numerous checkpoints along the way. Follow the officers’ instructions and you won’t have any problems.
You can also fly to Dakhla from Paris and various Moroccan cities. From Dakhla to the Mauritanian border, it’s a 4.5-hour drive.
Check out our Mauritania travel guide for helpful tips and what to expect on the road ahead
If you’re heading to Mauritania, Hotel Barbas is the last stop before the border. There’s a restaurant, small shop, ATM, and petrol station. The staff are friendly and speak English. They made us feel very welcome and even prepared a vegetable tajine for us.
Where to stay in Dakhla
If resorts are your preferred option, then you won’t have any trouble finding one on the outskirts of the city, along the water. If you prefer to stay in the city itself, there are various hotels and guesthouses. It gets busy here, as Dakhla is a popular getaway for Moroccans.
We stayed in an Airbnb a few streets back from the water. This area was protected from the worst of the wind and had good resources within walking distance. Apartments are very basic and only just comfortable. However, the hosts will go to great efforts if you need anything, including extra kitchen utensils. We had a huge tajine pot, so we made our first vegetable tajine. A cold shower and a break from the dust quickly become all you need here.
Staying anywhere around the centre of the city will allow you to walk to most of the sights.
Where to eat and drink in Dakhla
There are plenty of local eateries around the city, and while not everything is easy to find at first, locals can quickly point you in the right direction. We found people to be polite, friendly, and genuinely happy to help – and you really do need their help. Fish and beef are popular dishes, but locals helped us track down a vegetable tajine by directing us to someone who was happy to cook it for us.
Resources in the centre of town included a spice shop with fresh dates and olives, small grocery stores, fresh fruit and vegetables, a nut stand selling freshly roasted nuts, and a local coffee shop. There’s also a larger grocery store down near the waterfront, though variety is still limited.
- Check out Echarfaa food (popular with locals, this eatery offers a simple, authentic Moroccan menu. We enjoyed a freshly made vegetable tajine)
- Get to Restaurant Villa Dakhla (a beautiful view and tasty food, friendly staff)
- Don’t miss Chez Ntifi (lovely home-cooked meals, with vegetarian options available if you give them notice)
Things to see and do in Dakhla
The main attraction here is the water Wind surfing, kite surfing, and the beach are popular pastimes. Moroccans flock here for the sun and sand. On a calm day, the scenery is beautiful, and we loved watching all the action out on the ocean. Quad biking and other adventure activities are abundant.
Immerse yourself Stay amongst the locals and experience daily life up close. It’s an unforgettable experience.
Getting around Dakhla
It’s a windy city, so a car or taxi is the preferred way to get around town. If there is no wind, you can walk.
Getting to Western Sahara
The drive from Sidi Ifni to Laayoune takes around seven hours, or six hours to Dakhla. You can also fly from Casablanca, Agadir, or Dakhla. It’s a very remote destination with limited access, so careful planning is essential. Many European holidaymakers make the journey from Spain down to Dakhla in campervans.
The roads are in good condition, and there is a fair bit of road works going on to improve them further. There are small towns and villages along the way where you can refuel and grab water, but don’t count on finding anything but the most basic supplies. Fuel can sometimes run out along this route, so take the opportunity to fill up whenever you have the chance. It’s a scenic drive. Watch out for camels and sand drifts on the road.
Our journey formed part of a larger overland route through West Africa, continuing towards Senegal and Guinea-Bissau, where travel feels just as raw, remote, and unpredictable
Useful things to know before visiting Western Sahara
Western Sahara is a disputed territory, classified as a non-self-governing region. The UN does not recognise it as an independent country, nor does it acknowledge Moroccan sovereignty over it. The situation remains an ongoing conflict, with the UN continuing to seek a peaceful solution. Locally, it’s often simply referred to as ‘Sahara‘.
You’ll encounter many police checkpoints on the roads. These are generally straightforward, with friendly officers who often just want a chat. Have your car insurance, licence, and other documents ready. It’s worth preparing a simple printed form with all your details clearly laid out – handing this over when you come to a checkpoint makes the process quick and easy. We ended up using about fifty of them during our trip.
Services and supplies can be basic or hard to find, so don’t hesitate to ask locals. We found people warm, helpful, and genuinely eager to make visitors feel welcome. Even when vegetarian dishes weren’t on the menu, a quick question often solved the problem—we found vegetable tajines in seafood restaurants and even had a butcher offer to cook one for us.
Learn a few phrases goes a long way. Choukran means thankyou in Arabic and was always appreciated.
You won’t find too much in the way of luxury here, but what you will find is people trying their best to make you feel comfortable.
Final thoughts on travelling in Western Sahara
Western Sahara is like no other place we have been, and that uniqueness is its greatest draw. In all honesty, its cities offer little for visitors in terms of sights, and there’s a lot of driving involved, but what draws you to Western Sahara is that it’s truly different. The scenery is spectacular, and the variety of people who call Western Sahara home are genuinely just as curious about you as you are about them. They welcome you with a smile or a chuckle, because you’re just as unique to them.
Is it a place I’d return to again and again? Probably not. Is it a place I’ll always remember? Absolutely! Am I glad I came? 100%. Western Sahara is truly an obscure destination.