Crossing East African Borders Independently

The area referred to as East Africa is a vast one. Consisting of five countries – Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi and Tanzania – travelling here takes time and planning. Yes, regular flights connect the capitals, however these can be expensive. Travelling overland between the five countries is a fraction of the cost, and much more fun. A number of well used and popular border crossings provide easy access, making coming and going between each country straightforward.

We recently spent five months in this amazing region, visiting each of the five countries. We travelled overland the entire time, crossing all five borders. How easy is it, what’s involved, and what do you need? If you’re asking yourself these questions, this post has the answers and plenty of helpful tips.

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Kenya to Tanzania Border Crossing

This is one of the busiest and easiest border crossings. Getting here from Nairobi on public transport is simple. Minivans, known as matatus in Kenya, make multiple trips each day. The ride takes around three hours. In Africa, public transport doesn’t usually follow a schedule – they leave when they are full. Early morning is the best time, as things fill up quickly. After lunch, things slow down and you may have to wait for an hour or more. All these matatus hang around the same areas.

In Kenya, a bus stop is called a stage. Kenneth Matibo Road is one of Nairobi’s biggest. Matatus have a big sign on their roof which clearly displays the destination. There are hundreds of matatus, so finding the correct block where your matatu parks can be a little tricky. If you don’t see it, just ask. One of the other drivers will show you. Someone may even offer to walk you there. This is entirely fine. You won’t need to tip them. Upon delivering you to your matatu, they receive a finder’s fee from the driver.

Border crossing is located in a local town called Namanga. This is where you’ll find customs, complete the protocols, and cross the border. The customs offices are a short five-minute walk from the stage. Look for any forms that may need to be completed before lining up – there is nearly always a form. The first step is to line up and exit from Kenya. You always need to make sure you get your exit stamp before leaving a country. Once you have your stamp, head a few meters to the Tanzania entry window, get your passport stamped, and you have just changed countries. Follow the exit signs, and you’re off. There will be buses outside heading to Arusha, the region’s largest city. If you walk to the road, you’ll find shared cars and vans, which are quicker and cheaper. Arusha is less than a two-hour drive.

Don’t expect flash airport type facilities. Forget about duty free, bars and restaurants. The Namanga border crossing has a toilet, ATM, some snack stalls, and a couple of money changers if you are lucky. If you don’t plan on coming back to Kenya, make sure you change your money. You will also need some local Tanzanian money before you leave the border, so find a money changer or visit the ATM.

To enter Tanzania, many nationalities require a visa. You can do this at the border on arrival. To save time and hassle, get an E-visa in advance. Complete all the forms online and pay the fee. Within a few days, your visa will be emailed to you. This will already be in the system when you reach customs, making things even faster and easier.

If you are crossing from Tanzania to Kenya, the process is exactly the same.

Check out our Tanzania and Kenya travel guides for tips, local insights, and must-see spots

Border officials are friendly and helpful
Border officials are friendly and helpful

Kenya to Uganda Border Crossing

The busiest border crossing between these two countries is in the town of Busia. The border literally divides the town in half. It is a similar setup and procedure to that of the Kenya-Tanzania crossing at Namanga. Basically, follow the signs. Look for any forms that need to be filled out, and then queue up at the Kenya exit window. Once you have your stamp, head to the Uganda entry window, which is only a few meters away. A host of nations need a visa to visit Uganda. If you require one, you will be ushered to a small room where they will place the full-page sticker in your passport.

E-visas are becoming the norm now. This allows you to complete all the necessary formalities online in advance, including payment. This saves loads of time and confusion at the border. Uganda was a bit different. Even if you apply and receive your visa in advance, you will still get a full-page visa sticker at the border, so make sure you have space for it. This crossing also has an x-ray machine. You may be required to send your bags through, depending on the mood of the attendant. There is also a health check office, where they will want to see your yellow fever vaccination document. The crossing process, like the others, is straightforward. Don’t be put off by all the people – most of them don’t even go to customs. It’s a porous crossing for locals; they can come and go freely.

Reaching Busia takes time on public transport. It usually requires a change. It’s a good idea to break the journey up over a couple of days or more. This is what we did. We caught a matatu from Nairobi’s Kenneth Matibo Road area to Kisumu. Kisumu is a pleasant city on the shores of Lake Victoria. Leaving early is important, as it’s an eight to nine hour ride. From Kisumu, catch a matatu to the border crossing at Busia. This ride is only two hours. Kisumu has a large stage (bus stop). You will arrive from Nairobi here, and depart for Busia here – it’s the same place.

Once you’ve crossed into Uganda, just follow the road. As you walk down the street, matatus will start to appear, and drivers or their assistants will ask where you are heading. Jump in and get comfortable. If you are heading to Kampala, expect the ride to take five to seven hours, depending on the time of day and traffic.

The process is identical if you are travelling from Uganda to Kenya.

For more on what to see, where to stay, and insider tips, check out our Uganda and Kenya travel guides

You’ll make new friends, and the journey will be far more memorable than taking a plane.

Uganda to Rwanda Border Crossing

Uganda and Rwanda have two busy border crossings. We used the crossing at Cyanika, near the town of Kisoro. It’s a hassle-free crossing, like the others. You’ll find a couple of health checks, along with some bag screening. After completing these formalities, simply wait in line to get your Uganda exit stamp. Once you have successfully exited Uganda, walk over to the Rwanda building next door. Remember, there is nearly always a form to fill out, so grab it first, complete it, and line up to enter Rwanda. It’s a busy place, and depending on the time of day, it may take some time. Lines become a tangled mess quickly, and you’ll need to watch out for people pushing in. The key is to be confident.

The Rwandan side has an ATM and a currency exchange, as well as a few guys wandering around selling SIM cards.

Kisoro is the closest large town to the border. Buses make the trip to and from Kampala each day, the journey averaging about ten hours. Regular matatus connect Kisoro and the border town of Cyanika, a short twenty-minute drive away.

Mbarara, is the biggest town in this part of the country. From here you can catch direct rides all the way to Kigali, Rwanda’s capital. The centre of town has a busy public transport terminal full of matatus and shared cars heading in different directions. We used a shared car to get to Rwanda. This is by far the most comfortable and fastest way to travel. It took us around five hours, including the border crossing, to reach Kigali. The bonus is that you only wait for five people to complete their formalities at the border, instead of a full bus load. Matatus are another option, but they only run to Cyanika. You’ll then need to cross the border and grab a minibus heading to Kigali.

You won’t find duty-free shops or airport-type services here. A few street vendors selling snacks and soft drinks are the norm at most East African borders. Every border post has a toilet. Customs officers speak English, and as long as you are friendly and polite, they’ll normally treat you the same way. Rwanda is visa-free for many nationalities, which makes entering even easier.

Coming from Kigali is just as easy.

Explore Rwanda and Uganda with our travel guides to make the most of your trip

Rwanda to Tanzania Border Crossing

This busy border crossing is in the south-eastern corner of the country, in the town of Rusumo. It’s now one of Rwanda’s busiest borders, as a result of the Rwanda-Burundi border being closed indefinitely. All cars and trucks heading to Tanzania and Burundi use this crossing. You won’t encounter many other travellers down this way, unless they are also heading to Burundi.

A river acts as a natural border, and divides the two countries. You’ll actually cross the bridge into Tanzania before arriving at customs. Everything is generally clear; just follow the signs and the flow of people. Join the exit Rwanda queue, get your passport stamped, and exit the building.

Now that you’ve officially left Rwanda, it’s time to enter Tanzania. The process is the same as elsewhere in the region. You may have your bags checked, depending on your luck, and you will need to show your yellow fever document at the health office. Then walk to the Tanzania entry building, a short stroll. If you already have your e-visa, this will speed things up. Visas are also issued on arrival, it just involves more lines and waiting. Entering Tanzania isn’t difficult. The border post has toilets, a currency exchange and a few stalls selling snacks, but not much else.

We found customs officials here friendly and welcoming. Once you have your entry stamp, head outside to find a ride.

Rusumo is connected to Kigali by regular minibuses. They depart from Nyabugogo, the main bus station in Kigali, and the journey takes around four hours. Rusumo’s bus station is a few kilometres from the border, so you’ll need to get a ride for the last stretch. Most people jump on a motorbike taxi, but there are also plenty of regular cars waiting around offering rides. They’ll take you down the hill and across the bridge, directly to the border post.

Rusumo, on the Tanzanian side of the border, doesn’t have an abundance of public transport options. Dala dalas, local minivans, and buses head to towns, where you can change and continue in different directions. We caught a bus to Ngara, a two-hour ride. Ngara is a small town on the main road to Burundi. The Burundi border is less than forty kilometres away. We spent the night here, and headed off to the border early the next morning.

Plan your adventure in Rwanda and Tanzania with our travel guides, full of tips and local insights

Burundi - a country full of beautiful landscapes
Overland travel reveals beautiful landscapes and everyday rural life

Tanzania to Burundi Border Crossing

Customs on the Tanzanian side operate much like other East African land borders. They are located in the town of Kabanga. There are long lines of trucks here waiting to enter Burundi – with Burundi being landlocked, most of its products come and go via road. These trucks won’t impact your crossing much; they’re simply waiting to be inspected. Look for the exit Tanzania sign and join the queue at one of the customs windows. Things are easier when you depart a country. It’s just a matter of getting your passport stamped with an exit stamp.

This border crossing differs from many others though – you won’t find Burundi customs anywhere in Kabanga, or on the Tanzania side in general. Burundi immigration and customs are located a couple of kilometres away, in the town of Kobero. Motorbike taxis wait outside the Tanzanian customs building to ferry people to the Burundian side. Cars are also available for those who prefer four wheels, but the motorbikes are more efficient as they can squeeze through small gaps and around trucks, while cars may not be able to.

Your first stop on the Burundi side is a health check. Show the person behind the desk your yellow fever card and you’ll be issued with a small ticket. Return to your motorbike or car, then continue to the next building for immigration.  It can feel a little chaotic inside, and it’s easy to get confused as there are several steps involved, and nothing is in English. If in doubt, ask someone behind one of the windows. Young men will likely approach you offering help – and to be honest, their assistance is genuinely useful.

Basically, there are three main stages. First, fill out the visa application form. Then, the visa fee must be paid at the bank, which requires collecting another form and walking a short distance down the street. Once you have paid, get the payment form stamped. Return with this to the visa window and hand it in, along with your passport. Now you wait. Once your visa has been issued, return to the original window to get your entry stamp. They only issue three-day visas at the border, so you’ll need to visit Immigration in Bujumbura if you plan to stay longer.

The entire entry process took us around ninety minutes. Once complete, head outside and look for a ride to Bujumbura.

Ngara has shared taxis that leave when full to the town of Kabanga, near the border. You’ll still need a motorbike taxi to complete the actual border crossing. These are ideal, as they provide door to door service – dropping you at each stage, waiting, and taking you to the next stop.

Buses depart Kobero when full, heading towards Bujumbura and Gitega. Depending on your timing, a bus may be ready to leave, or you may wait an hour or two for more passengers. Another option is a shared car. They cost roughly double a bus ticket, but there’s hardly any waiting time. Drivers will approach you offering rides – take one; cars are far more comfortable and considerably quicker than the bus. Gitega is around a two-hour drive, with the capital Bujumbura a further two hours beyond that.

Get the most out of your Tanzania to Burundi adventure with our travel guides

Final thoughts on crossing East African borders independently

Crossing East African land borders may seem a little scary and  daunting when planning your trip. The thought of being dropped in some remote frontier town might not sound appealing. In reality, there is nothing to worry about. Busy, hot and dusty perhaps, but scary – not at all. These crossings are generally straightforward. Everyone is friendly and helpful, and customs officers are usually far more welcoming than at airports. We found that approaching each step with a calm, confident, and positive attitude made the process much easier.

The journeys to reach these borders are what makes them interesting. Treat it like a tour. You miss so much of the country when you fly over it. Crossing East African borders lets you see small rural villages, everyday life, and even wildlife along the way. You’ll make new friends, and the journey will be far more memorable than taking a plane.